Replacing the brakes on the Xtracycle

[peterw_diy]

Everyone seems to love the MTB versions of the BB7s so why not save $ and go that route, especially with the long rear brake run?

I had the opposite experience with my Mundo. Was sure I’d ditch the cheap Promax Vs for disk but with Koolstop pads they’ve been great.

[TwoWheelsDC]

I put some BB7s on my hybrid, which I use for hauling the dog/cargo trailer. The only time the brakes squeal is when I’m feathering them to a stop. Admittedly I don’t ride that bike much, but I haven’t adjusted the brakes since I put them on. I got mine used for like $40, so that’s a potential trial option before jumping into hydros.

[notlost]

I’d agree with you that BB5s are pretty horrible, and annoying to keep adjusted. One option that will probably get you longer than a week is to change over to sintered pads. Sometimes they’ll squeal a bit more, but they wear much slower.

With the long rear brake run you may want to look at something like the TRP HY/RD – a cable actuated hydro brake. The BB7 and TRP Spyre are both good options if you stick with pure mechanical, both are easy to adjust on the fly.

[jrenaut]

Every time I take the bike in to Bicycle Space (where we got it) they all say I HAVE to upgrade to the BB7s. I want to say “don’t sell a bike with components your entire staff hates”, but I get that 1) components aren’t there decision and 2) I’ve talked to Ross from Xtracycle and he says they don’t much like the BB5s either but needed something cheaper than the BB7s in order to sell the bike.

Anyway, that said, I don’t much want to try another set of Avid brakes, even though by all accounts the BB7s are much nicer.

[mstone]

@jrenaut 122784 wrote:

I’ve talked to Ross from Xtracycle and he says they don’t much like the BB5s either but needed something cheaper than the BB7s in order to sell the bike

If it’s any consolation, it doesn’t look like they spec BB5s on anything anymore. I’d just go for the BB7, it’s ~$60 and should be a drop-in replacement. I’ve never seen them sold without rotors, so that includes a replacement rotor! On that note, you might consider getting the 200mm rotor if it looks like you have the clearance (if it doesn’t work out, just keep the 180 on).

[Bruno Moore]

“You HAVE to upgrade to BB7’s.”

There. Have my Spacestaffly duty out of the way.

I’d actually have a look at Paul’s new Klamper. If you think of it as a more refined version of a BB7, you wouldn’t be that far off the mark. More easily adjustable too, even in cold, “in the wild” conditions—those big orange knurls are so you can adjust the pad clearance with gloved fingers, rather than fussy tools. You can even switch out between long pull (MTBish) and short pull (CXish) brake levers if you ever want to put ’em on another bike.

Yeah, they’re pretty cool.

[mstone]

@Brünø Moore 122799 wrote:

I’d actually have a look at Paul’s new Klamper. If you think of it as a more refined version of a BB7, you wouldn’t be that far off the mark. More easily adjustable too, even in cold, “in the wild” conditions—those big orange knurls are so you can adjust the pad clearance with gloved fingers, rather than fussy tools. You can even switch out between long pull (MTBish) and short pull (CXish) brake levers if you ever want to put ’em on another bike.

Unless you need orange, I’d try the BB7s first (actually, just the front) to get a better understanding of what’s possible/reasonable with the bike. If everything’s golden, done for $60. If it seems at that point like the only thing the bike still needs is fancy orange trim on the brakes, then you dump $350 on the paul’s. If there’s basically no change in braking performance, it’s a good point to stop and wonder whether it makes sense to dump in more money or whether to adjust expectations. Since it’s a flat bar bike, going to decent hydro brakes will still be cheaper than the paul’s and I’d probably go that route.

[Raymo853]

I have used BB7s on mountain bikes and just installed a road set. The road BB7s have impressed me a lot. I always loved the MTB ones. I also have a bike with road BB5s. They are less than good, way less.

However, for my MTBs, I have switched to hydro XT units. They are simply amazing. If you want to shell out the $110 for each unit, they are worth it. Of course you’ll might need to lengthen the hose for the rear. Much more work than shortening, as you will have to refill and bleed the system. This will give you an idea of the work involved in hydro brakes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QciJbZf6Bqc
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdxYzDNY8OE

[Bruno Moore]

I’m a little skittish about hydro brakes, but that’s mostly because I’m bad about maintenance and a tad wrenchphobic…and every time I see someone bleeding brakes, between the syringe and the pink DOT fluid, it always looks to me like they’re putting the bike to sleep. Great on rental bikes, but don’t want to have to deal with them myself. So of course I’m going to be the guy recommending the Best Damn Mechanical Discs Ever, Bar None over the hydros. Easy adjustment, no mess, great articulation and modulation, no bubbles in the line I’m going to ignore for six months, no vet clinic flashbacks…

[mstone]

@Brünø Moore 122975 wrote:

I’m a little skittish about hydro brakes, but that’s mostly because I’m bad about maintenance and a tad wrenchphobic…and every time I see someone bleeding brakes, between the syringe and the pink DOT fluid, it always looks to me like they’re putting the bike to sleep. Great on rental bikes, but don’t want to have to deal with them myself. So of course I’m going to be the guy recommending the Best Damn Mechanical Discs Ever, Bar None over the hydros. Easy adjustment, no mess, great articulation and modulation, no bubbles in the line I’m going to ignore for six months, no vet clinic flashbacks…

So you don’t drive?

[Raymo853]

@Brünø Moore 122975 wrote:

I’m a little skittish about hydro brakes, but that’s mostly because I’m bad about maintenance and a tad wrenchphobic…and every time I see someone bleeding brakes, between the syringe and the pink DOT fluid, it always looks to me like they’re putting the bike to sleep. Great on rental bikes, but don’t want to have to deal with them myself. So of course I’m going to be the guy recommending the Best Damn Mechanical Discs Ever, Bar None over the hydros. Easy adjustment, no mess, great articulation and modulation, no bubbles in the line I’m going to ignore for six months, no vet clinic flashbacks…

The syringe and DOT fluid horror is eliminated by using Shimano units. The bleed system is much better (just like most cars) and uses mineral oil that is not nearly as toxic as DOT stuff.

Well what are the “Best Damn Mechanical Discs Ever”? Using both BB7s and Haynes CX Pro I might vote for the later and not the former as best overall in use, however, the former might the vote in regards to durability and brake pad replacement ease.

[Bruno Moore]

@mstone 123002 wrote:

So you don’t drive?

Not very often, actually—maybe once a month. At this point, it’s mostly just something I keep around for friends who are moving and offering beer and coffee beans. Certainly don’t watch when the good folks at Rising Sun work their magic.

What about TRP Spyres, or other dual-piston mechanical discs?

[Author]

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