Newb questions about fixing flats.

[Steve O]

@hozn 142700 wrote:

Yeah, I know that this is possible / that people do this, but that’s a good point. My concerns with a tubed-system would be finding the leak, though typically I’d prefer to do that even if I’m just gonna replace the tube (so I can check the tire for the culprit).

Tubeless really does make this a whole lot easier, though:

Do they make a tubeless 590mm for 1960’s vintage 3-speeds?

[huskerdont]

@hozn 142700 wrote:

Tubeless really does make this a whole lot easier

Sez you. Some of us are not that smart, or perhaps think it sounds like a whole lot of extra work for minimal gain. I think that’s the opposite of “easier.”:p

/threadjack.

[Tim Kelley]

@hozn 142708 wrote:

Tubes can be had for $2.99, so you can hopefully outfit yourself for a year of cycling for $15.

Where do you get yours? Got any tubes with 80mm stems at that price?

[hozn]

@Steve O 142709 wrote:

Do they make a tubeless 590mm for 1960’s vintage 3-speeds?

If it’s low-pressure (< 45psi), you could just tape the rims & throw sealant in there and see what happens. But if it's road pressures, then this would be ill advised. So the only solution is probably n+1

[hozn]

@Tim Kelley 142714 wrote:

Where do you get yours? Got any tubes with 80mm stems at that price?

Last time I needed 60mm valve stems, I added a couple tubes to my order from jenson. http://www.jensonusa.com/Duro-Road-Presta-Valve-Tube … Those are perfect for tubeless since they’re threaded all the way to the top (I am using them in 50mm rims). Sure was cheaper than $14.99 for a set of Stans stems [that would have required another $20 !?! for Stans threaded valve extenders!]. They don’t come in 80mm, though, no :-[

[lordofthemark]

@hozn 142708 wrote:

Just remember that the small patch kits are basically one-time use (unless you happen to flat again before the glue dries out). The adhesive patches are a lot faster and then you can do the real fixing at home. Or just recycle the tube. Tubes can be had for $2.99, so you can hopefully outfit yourself for a year of cycling for $15. I repair tubes (or did when I used them) since I have a box of patches and a big tub of glue, but I don’t think it makes any sort of economic sense.

I am pretty sure I used the same glue that I used for the failed attempt at a fix in March (described in the OP).

[hozn]

@huskerdont 142712 wrote:

Sez you. Some of us are not that smart, or perhaps think it sounds like a whole lot of extra work for minimal gain. I think that’s the opposite of “easier.”:p

That’s fair. If you never (or very rarely) flat then I agree it probably isn’t worth the hassle. It does lower rolling resistance, etc. but that isn’t my primary motivator. The GP4000SII tires with latex tubes feel at least as fast as Schwalbe Pro One tubeless.

Oh, I did forget about flatting out [on tubeless] in the gravel at Poolesville Road Race. I put in a tube for that, since I didn’t have any plugs with me (saddle bag in the car) and fixed the tire at home.

[huskerdont]

@Harry Meatmotor 142683 wrote:

Try one of these!

The Surly site says Bicycle Space may have those tuggnuts. They’re a short walk from werk or on the ride home. Looks like it would work a lot better than my idea of inserting a bolt in front of the axle.

[huskerdont]

@hozn 142718 wrote:

That’s fair. If you never (or very rarely) flat then I agree it probably isn’t worth the hassle. It does lower rolling resistance, etc. but that isn’t my primary motivator. The GP4000SII tires with latex tubes feel at least as fast as Schwalbe Pro One tubeless.

Oh, I did forget about flatting out [on tubeless] in the gravel at Poolesville Road Race. I put in a tube for that, since I didn’t have any plugs with me (saddle bag in the car) and fixed the tire at home.

Ah, so you *can* put a tube in a tubeless in an emergency. How you get the tire glued back on trailside though I don’t even want to think about; or does it still clinch if there’s a tube in? (No need to answer that because Google.)

I used to get a lot of flats, especially in Georgetown, but started going with slower, heavier tires with better protection and have now reached an acceptable level of flats. I still wouldn’t call it “very rarely” because the sample size isn’t large enough yet, but here’s hoping.

[hozn]

Yeah, there is no “glue” with tubeless. Just latex sealant. Technically (usually) optional but kinda required for the self-sealing properties. It’s just a regular clincher tire, though, if/when you want to use a tube.

This is completely unrelated to tubular tires, which I definitely think would be way too much hassle .

[Harry Meatmotor]

Also, for the belt-and-suspenders-types out there (or, if, for example, you’ve got an internally geared rear hub and don’t want to futz with all that jazz during a commute…), just squirt some Stan’s sealant (or Effetto Mariposa Caffelatex, or Orange Seal) into your new/unpunctured innertube before inflating it, and get all the puncture-resistance benefits of tubeless without dealing with the potential tire issues, or mess. For Schrader valve tubes you’ll need to remove the core, and for presta valve tubes I highly recommend pulling the core, but it’s not necessary. Yes, eventually the sealant will dry out, but it should get through at least a full fair-weather (May to October) cycling season just fine. In 12 months you’ll probably want to squirt fresh sealant in anyhow.

[Steve O]

@Harry Meatmotor 142723 wrote:

just squirt some …. Effetto Mariposa Caffelatex,

Wasn’t this one of the ways you could earn points in Brünø’s Big Bad Coffee Challenge?

[huskerdont]

@hozn 142722 wrote:

Yeah, there is no “glue” with tubeless. Just latex sealant. Technically (usually) optional but kinda required for the self-sealing properties. It’s just a regular clincher tire, though, if/when you want to use a tube.

This is completely unrelated to tubular tires, which I definitely think would be way too much hassle .

I should have been more precise and said “sealant,” which in my casual frame of mind at the time was synonymous with glue. However, now I know better because I’ve been thinking about it. My Ultegra wheel with Pro4s was flat, so I changed the tube, doing the usual look in the tire for glass and thorns. There was nothing there, but when I pumped the tube up, it immediately blew; however, the tire did not go flat! I was like, hey, if only I had some *sealant* I could ride this bike. Instead, I got out another bike. Pretty sure there’s something coming through the rim tape; will pump up the tube to find the hole location when I have time, but I do think I’ll stroll down to the LBS and get some sealant in the meantime. I’m nervous about trying it, but I was nervous about a lot of things I tried and then moved to doing all the time.

[hozn]

Yeah, just note that you need a tubeless-specific tire if you are going to ditch the tube altogether. (You can, of course, add sealant inside a tube too.)

[lordofthemark]

After my flat on Saturday, I schlepped the bike home (post Mellow Mushroom) and since I was going to be putting the LITs on anyway, decided to do all that at once. I swapped out the tires (a bit harder than changing a tube, but not that much) and replaced the blown tube with an old repaired tube I had kept. The bad tube has a biggish hole right near the valve. Focusing on getting the new tires on, I did not remember to note where on the old tires the hole had happened. Or even which tire was which. I guess I now need to go over the old tires to see if there is something that punctured them. I am also guessing it is probably not worth repairing this blown tube.

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