Newb questions about fixing flats.

[hozn]

@Harry Meatmotor 142675 wrote:

edit: also, to assuage any guilt associated with throwing used/punctured tubes in the trash, many shops have tube recycling programs.

I love finding discarded tubes. Free valve stems!

I agree with not using glue on the trailside. The adhesive patches work great for the I-already-used-my-tube trailside repairs, but I don’t keep them in long-term.

Actually, since converting to tubeless I don’t think I’ve had a situation where I had to put a tube in. Probably 7k miles now between the two bikes, maybe a bit more. I have ridden on less-than-ideal pressure once or twice. I still carry a tube of course — and patches. On long rides, I carry two tubes.

[chris_s]

I used to be a “just put a new tube on” guy until I was forced to use a patch kit without removing the wheel while I was in the Netherlands. Now I’m a convert, especially since the rear wheel on my commuter is tough to get off and both wheels of the Bakfiets are a challenge. Now I’m a “patch the tube while it’s still on the wheel” person. I’ve heard a fair amount of negativity about the durability of the self-stick patches.

[huskerdont]

@chris_s 142679 wrote:

I used to be a “just put a new tube on” guy until I was forced to use a patch kit without removing the wheel while I was in the Netherlands. Now I’m a covert, especially since the rear wheel on my commuter is tough to get off and both wheels of the Bakfiets are a challenge. Now I’m a “patch the tube while it’s still on the wheel” person. I’ve heard a fair amount of negativity about the durability of the self-stick patches.

Hadn’t thought of that. That could work when I get a flat on my fixie and I have forgotten to bring my full-sized wrench with me. (I have one of those little Crank Bros wrenches that I usually carry, but in all honestly, I think that would only work if I had a rock handy to hit it with. If I don’t really tighten the rear wheel down hard, it will slip through the track dropout; in fact, even when hammered down, it will eventually slip some over the course of a few weeks. So, I keep a full-sized wrench in my bag, but don’t always remember to take it out of the bag when I ride without it.) So, great idea. I’m learning here.

[Steve O]

@chris_s 142679 wrote:

I used to be a “just put a new tube on” guy until I was forced to use a patch kit without removing the wheel while I was in the Netherlands. Now I’m a convert, especially since the rear wheel on my commuter is tough to get off and both wheels of the Bakfiets are a challenge. Now I’m a “patch the tube while it’s still on the wheel” person. I’ve heard a fair amount of negativity about the durability of the self-stick patches.

It’s surprising that many people do not know that one can fix a flat without removing the wheel from the bike. Sure, if it’s a quick release, NBD. But my toodler bike requires wrenches and the rear has a coaster brake. I’ll fix that tube until it has 20 patches, using glue, of course, so they’re permanent.

[Harry Meatmotor]

@huskerdont 142681 wrote:

Hadn’t thought of that. That could work when I get a flat on my fixie and I have forgotten to bring my full-sized wrench with me. (I have one of those little Crank Bros wrenches that I usually carry, but in all honestly, I think that would only work if I had a rock handy to hit it with. If I don’t really tighten the rear wheel down hard, it will slip through the track dropout; in fact, even when hammered down, it will eventually slip some over the course of a few weeks. So, I keep a full-sized wrench in my bag, but don’t always remember to take it out of the bag when I ride without it.) So, great idea. I’m learning here.

Try one of these!

[Steve O]

@hozn 142677 wrote:

I agree with not using glue on the trailside. The adhesive patches work great for the I-already-used-my-tube trailside repairs, but I don’t keep them in long-term.

I agree with this conceptually.
My problem is that I forget that I put the glueless patch on…or I tell myself, “I’ll do it Saturday.” But then I never do and 10-30 days later I have another flat. So until I get a memory upgrade I’ll stick with glue, even on the trailside.

[ShawnoftheDread]

@Harry Meatmotor 142683 wrote:

Try one of these!

Do you know of anything like this that works on forward facing horizontal drops?

[Harry Meatmotor]

@Steve O 142685 wrote:

I agree with this conceptually.
My problem is that I forget that I put the glueless patch on…or I tell myself, “I’ll do it Saturday.” But then I never do and 10-30 days later I have another flat. So until I get a memory upgrade I’ll stick with glue, even on the trailside.

or you could just put a new tube in :confused:

[Harry Meatmotor]

@ShawnoftheDread 142686 wrote:

Do you know of anything like this that works on forward facing horizontal drops?

Somebody’s bound to make something that would work for FWD facing dropouts, but I haven’t really ever looked for one, either.

[Steve O]

@Harry Meatmotor 142692 wrote:

or you could just put a new tube in :confused:

Again, I agree with this conceptually, but there have been occasions where I have given my tube away on the trail and then forgotten I’d done that, so I ride around with no spare tube for weeks. Or some other boneheaded reason why I either don’t have a tube or it’s not functional or something else. Do not underestimate the negative effects of aging on one’s mental acuity.

[Harry Meatmotor]

@Steve O 142696 wrote:

Do not underestimate the negative effects of cold vulcanizing glue fumes on one’s mental acuity.

:p :p :p

[hozn]

@Steve O 142682 wrote:

It’s surprising that many people do not know that one can fix a flat without removing the wheel from the bike. Sure, if it’s a quick release, NBD. But my toodler bike requires wrenches and the rear has a coaster brake. I’ll fix that tube until it has 20 patches, using glue, of course, so they’re permanent.

Yeah, I know that this is possible / that people do this, but that’s a good point. My concerns with a tubed-system would be finding the leak, though typically I’d prefer to do that even if I’m just gonna replace the tube (so I can check the tire for the culprit).

Tubeless really does make this a whole lot easier, though: if the leak is small enough that it’s hard to find, then you won’t have had to stop in the first place. If it’s large enough that sealant doesn’t work for it, then it’ll be really obvious exactly where the leak is and you can just throw in a tube without needing to track down where the intrusion was on the tire — or use tubeless repair plugs without touching the tire levers (my first choice).

[vern]

@hozn 142677 wrote:

I love finding discarded tubes. Free valve stems!

I will start placing discarded tubes in the weeds in Hunter Mill Valley to give you an occasional thrill.

[lordofthemark]

@Harry Meatmotor 142664 wrote:

Honestly, why does it seem that everyone around here insists on using cold vulcanizing patch kits?

In my case because the patch kits are handed out free as swag. At this point I think I will keep the patched tube at home, and refrain from trying a ‘field patch’ till I feel more confident about it (and till I keep all the appropriate stuff with me)

[hozn]

@lordofthemark 142706 wrote:

In my case because the patch kits are handed out free as swag. At this point I think I will keep the patched tube at home, and refrain from trying a ‘field patch’ till I feel more confident about it (and till I keep all the appropriate stuff with me)

Just remember that the small patch kits are basically one-time use (unless you happen to flat again before the glue dries out). The adhesive patches are a lot faster and then you can do the real fixing at home. Or just recycle the tube. Tubes can be had for $2.99, so you can hopefully outfit yourself for a year of cycling for $15. I repair tubes (or did when I used them) since I have a box of patches and a big tub of glue, but I don’t think it makes any sort of economic sense.

[Author]

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