New Wheels for Old Bike…

[DismalScientist]

Congrats, you have a steel bike. This means you don’t have to worry about having a specific hub width. See note on gearing below.

Replacing wheels is fairly straight-forward as rim sizes are fairly standard. You should decide ahead whether you want a narrow rim or wider (racey or touring). Narrow rims are appropriate for 23 through 28 mm tires, whereas if the tires you want to run are greater than 28, go with a wider rim. I assume since the previous wheels are sew-ups, you are likely looking for narrower rims.

If you are a large male, make sure the wheels have enough spokes to support your weight and riding style.

One thing you need to consider is gearing. Newer bikes have cassettes, which have 8 to 11 cogs and need narrower chains. Your bike has a freewheel, which takes a different type of hub. Freewheels have 5 to 8 cogs. You could probably go with either, but your shifters (if they are indexed) may only be compatible with a certain number of cogs. If you go with a cassette, you will probably want a different set of shifters and derailleur. (Has anyone actually run friction shifters on a bike with a cassette?) If you have non-indexed, friction shifters, I would probably switch to a 7 cog freewheel. Also, 6 to 8 cog freewheels take narrower chains than 5 cog freewheels.

Wheels can be found on craigslist, the internet, or ordered through bicycle stores. Internet sources include niagaracycle.com and nashbar. I’m thinking that you will want to make sure you get a rear hub that takes freewheels.

[thecyclingeconomist]

@Trav21 32817 wrote:

I’ve just been given my dad’s old road bike. I’ve never riden a road/racing bike before, but would like to get into some casual/recreational riding. The bike is an old, (80’s?), fuji valite 10 speed. I’ve lubed it up and everything seems to be running as it should, however, it has sew-up rims, 700c. I’d much prefer a set of clinchers.

How do I go about replacing the wheels? I need an affordable (not race worthy) set of wheels that will accept tubes and fit without any modifications. I’m not trying to turn this bike into a project. This is my first bike, and I’m not ready for all that, nor am I ready for the costs. I just want to have some fun riding as cheaply and safely as possible

Where do I look, and what exactly am I looking for?

Thanks in advance for helping a new rider get into the sport!

It’s going to be tough to find a rear wheel that has a 5-speed cassette and 126mm spacing unless you buy used. But, if you want new; here is a new option on ebay; all that you’d have to do is flip the freewheel from your wheels onto this set. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Sun-CR18-27-Silver-Road-Bike-Wheelset-Freewheel-126mm-5-6-7-Speed-Freewheel-/271067560057?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1ce2b879

[Tim Kelley]

Visit these guys: http://www.phoenixbikes.org/

They’ll have everything you need.

[DismalScientist]

@thecyclingeconomist 32822 wrote:

It’s going to be tough to find a rear wheel that has a 5-speed cassette and 126mm spacing unless you buy used.

Ye of little faith…http://www.niagaracycle.com/index.php?cPath=9_91_91013_9101301&sort=2a&filter_id=&sort=3a
Just look for “FW” or “6-8 Speed”

BTW, spacing doesn’t really matter with a steel bike.

[mstone]

@DismalScientist 32841 wrote:

BTW, spacing doesn’t really matter with a steel bike.

Only up to a point, and only if you don’t care if changing a tire is a PITA or are willing to re-set the spacing.

[thecyclingeconomist]

@DismalScientist 32841 wrote:

Ye of little faith…

BTW, spacing doesn’t really matter with a steel bike.

On the first part: you’ll only find them online, as we both showed him. And unless he’s bike-savvy, the chances of making an error on purchase and having to deal with horrible return policies ramp up quickly. Finding a replacement set in a local shop: it won’t happen, and that’s what I meant.

I’d have to contend that last part. Having converted dozens of older steel framed bikes to new groups, unless you cold-set the rear spacing appropriately, you’ll have a seriously terrible time (on average) anytime you have to replace the tire, tube or cassette. The angle of the drops makes locking in the wheel with a skewer worse (making you have to over-tighten) when you force a 130 into a 126. In addition, just forcing the wheel in doesn’t mean that both stays are flexing equally: meaning that the wheel alignment to the frame will almost assuredly be wrong.

Unless you plan on switching out the whole gruppo, it doesn’t matter though: just get a replacement that fits from the get go. Phoenix bikes sounds like a good place for vintage parts for a good price.

Good luck and God bless! Once you get your vintage ride up and running, it’ll be awesome!

[DismalScientist]

@thecyclingeconomist 32853 wrote:

On the first part: you’ll only find them online, as we both showed him. And unless he’s bike-savvy, the chances of making an error on purchase and having to deal with horrible return policies ramp up quickly. Finding a replacement set in a local shop: it won’t happen, and that’s what I meant.

I’d have to contend that last part. Having converted dozens of older steel framed bikes to new groups, unless you cold-set the rear spacing appropriately, you’ll have a seriously terrible time (on average) anytime you have to replace the tire, tube or cassette. The angle of the drops makes locking in the wheel with a skewer worse (making you have to over-tighten) when you force a 130 into a 126. In addition, just forcing the wheel in doesn’t mean that both stays are flexing equally: meaning that the wheel alignment to the frame will almost assuredly be wrong.

Unless you plan on switching out the whole gruppo, it doesn’t matter though: just get a replacement that fits from the get go. Phoenix bikes sounds like a good place for vintage parts for a good price.

Good luck and God bless! Once you get your vintage ride up and running, it’ll be awesome!

I haven’t had any problems with not cold setting a frame when going up one size in axle spacing. For your reading pleasure: http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

[mstone]

@DismalScientist 32856 wrote:

I haven’t had any problems with not cold setting a frame when going up one size in axle spacing. For your reading pleasure: http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

You didn’t say “one size”, you said it “doesn’t really matter”; there are limits, and if he grabs a 135 wheelset he might hit those limits. Note that people started saying 126, but this could be a 120… (Note to original poster: see the sheldon brown link above to see what to measure.) And there’s a difference between “works” and “is pleasant”. If you don’t reset the frame, I don’t understand how you could not have to pull the stays apart to change a tire, which can be “unpleasant” if you’re standing on the side of the road in the rain cursing at a flat.

[krazygl00]

dismalscientist;32821 wrote:

congrats, you have a steel bike. This means you don’t have to worry about having a specific hub width. See note on gearing below.

Replacing wheels is fairly straight-forward as rim sizes are fairly standard. You should decide ahead whether you want a narrow rim or wider (racey or touring). Narrow rims are appropriate for 23 through 28 mm tires, whereas if the tires you want to run are greater than 28, go with a wider rim. I assume since the previous wheels are sew-ups, you are likely looking for narrower rims.

if you are large, make sure the wheels have enough spokes to support your weight and riding style.

One thing you need to consider is gearing. Newer bikes have cassettes, which have 8 to 11 cogs and need narrower chains. Your bike has a freewheel, which takes a different type of hub. Freewheels have 5 to 8 cogs. You could probably go with either, but your shifters (if they are indexed) may only be compatible with a certain number of cogs. If you go with a cassette, you will probably want a different set of shifters and derailleur. (has anyone actually run friction shifters on a bike with a cassette?) if you have non-indexed, friction shifters, i would probably switch to a 7 cog freewheel. Also, 6 to 8 cog freewheels take narrower chains than 5 cog freewheels.

Wheels can be found on craigslist, the internet, or ordered through bicycle stores. Internet sources include niagaracycle.com and nashbar. I’m thinking that you will want to make sure you get a rear hub that takes freewheels.

ftfy

[DismalScientist]

@mstone 32885 wrote:

You didn’t say “one size”, you said it “doesn’t really matter”; there are limits, and if he grabs a 135 wheelset he might hit those limits. Note that people started saying 126, but this could be a 120… (Note to original poster: see the sheldon brown link above to see what to measure.) And there’s a difference between “works” and “is pleasant”. If you don’t reset the frame, I don’t understand how you could not have to pull the stays apart to change a tire, which can be “unpleasant” if you’re standing on the side of the road in the rain cursing at a flat.

My guess is that he going from a 120 to a 126 since he is likely to stick with a freewheel rather than a cassette. I wouldn’t be surprised if a “ten-speed” from the 80’s might be a 12 speed, in which case it would be going from a 126 to 126.

As far as spreading the stays being “unpleasant,” this is likely a minor inconvenience compared to actually changing the flat on the side of the road in the rain.

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