My fixed gear project

[ShawnoftheDread]

You need twice the amount you need to move on the drive side. To go out 4 mm, you need an 8 mm longer spindle.

You have a 103 now and it’s too wide with the ring on the outside?

[dkel]

@ShawnoftheDread 100954 wrote:

You have a 103 now and it’s too wide with the ring on the outside?

Yes! It’s nutty! I have to wonder if there’s an irregularity somewhere: in the frame, BB, or crank. I followed all the spec sheets. I’ll probably take it all apart and reassemble it, just to make sure its not an installation problem (but I really don’t think it is).

[Harry Meatmotor]

@dkel 100955 wrote:

there’s an irregularity somewhere: in the frame, BB, or crank.

D) All of the above

to get overly technical, with a square taper BB, you’re always going some see some variance in chainline from one BB/crank to another due to how well the taper interface in the crank and bb spindle are machined/forged. it’s an interference fit designed to tolerate sloppy tolerances in the first place. You could try spacing out the chainring from crank arms, too.

setting up a single speed or fixie chainline is trial and error, unfortunately. but, once you’ve got it figured out, it’s figured out pretty much for good.

edit: also, make sure you’re tightening the crank arm bolt down to at least 45ft/lbs. the crank arm will slide up the taper at least 3-4mm from snug to proper torque spec.

[dkel]

@Harry Meatmotor 100958 wrote:

make sure you’re tightening the crank arm bolt down to at least 45ft/lbs. the crank arm will slide up the taper at least 3-4mm from snug to proper torque spec.

What about greasing the spindles? My Zinn maintenance book said aluminum cranks can get damaged by sliding too far up the spindle when greased, so I left off the grease. Would grease help it get into its spec chainline?

[Harry Meatmotor]

@dkel 100959 wrote:

What about greasing the spindles? My Zinn maintenance book said aluminum cranks can get damaged by sliding too far up the spindle when greased, so I left off the grease. Would grease help it get into its spec chainline?

You shouldn’t grease the spindle. The only time I’d recommend doing that would be if it’s a titanium spindle – and if that’s the case you should be using an anti-seize compound.

[dkel]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]7157[/ATTACH]

New seatpost and saddle, original quill stem and bars. I was able to ride it up and down my driveway this evening, and it totally works! I don’t see how anyone really rides one of these things without brakes, though; that’s loco. I have a threaded to threadless quill adapter waiting on my shelf, and I think I’ll do some comparison measurements with my other bike, and order up some parts to complete the thing: brake, cable, brake levers, stem, and bars. I can’t ride it without a brake; as it is, I’m sure I’ll kill myself if I leave my driveway. Anyone have recommendations on drop bars they like for FG?

(Side note: I reinstalled my BB and cranks, and double-checked the torque specifications. I may still be a millimeter or two off of a perfectly straight chainline, but the thing really runs quite smoothly. When I get the chance, I’ll show it to the folks at Bikenetic to get an opinion on the chainline, since I have no experience in this area. If need be, I understand I can get one or two millimeters by putting in a spacer behind the cog.)

[TwoWheelsDC]

Nice!

You gonna go with just drops or drops + hoods?

[dkel]

@TwoWheelsDC 101536 wrote:

You gonna go with just drops or drops + hoods?

I like hoods. I’m thinking I’ll stick with hoods.

[vvill]

I have silver finish Civia Emerson bars on my fixed gear since they are 26mm clamp and compact road bars. I pretty much use the same hand positions as I would on my geared bikes.

[dcv]

+1 for compact road drops
looking good

[ShawnoftheDread]

+2. I have Nitto compact road drops.

[dkel]

Had fun working on the bike this afternoon. Being an old bike, the fork crown was drilled with 6mm holes for mounting a brake. Modern, recessed mount brakes require an 8mm rear hole. I got an 8mm drill bit, and drilled out the rear hole on the fork crown; it was a little scary to be taking a drill to the thing, but the job couldn’t have been much easier. I was able to install the brake that Bikenetic donated to my cause (see that story here), but I’m not crazy about it…it’s a little clunky, and other than being new, it’s almost exactly like the original 1980’s caliper I took off because its seeming ineffectiveness scared the crap out of me.

I also installed the quill stem adapter so I could use a threadless stem. Found out the adapter is long enough—and the head tube short enough—that it sticks up pretty far. It’s in past its minimum insertion point, but for some reason it doesn’t want to go in past where the bottom of the down tube meets the head tube. I looked in there with a light, and can’t see anything that could interfere there, and I used plenty of grease. It brings the stem up to a comparable geometry with my other bike, so I’m not too upset about it, but it does look a little weird.

On another topic, the guys at Bikenetic looked at my chainline for me, and suggested I leave it as is. It’s only a couple mm off, and I can always change it later, after I’ve ridden it for a while to get the feel of it.

Brake levers will be in midweek, and I think I’ll splurge and order the remaining parts this weekend.

[dkel]

Ordered some parts. —Ok, I ordered many parts: enough to finish out the build (except for whatever parts I forgot, and there are probably some of those). Still, doubt I will get it finished before Xmas.

[dkel]

Some parts arrived today!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]7208[/ATTACH]

[dkel]

Brake levers came in today. I’m supposed to get a box tomorrow with the last of everything.

[Author]

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