My fixed gear project

[dkel]

All my parts are in! 😎

So, for installing the stem and bars, do I put grease on the clamping surfaces? The FSA parts that I got say to use their “installation compound,” but I don’t know what that is, and I don’t have any anyway.

It’s a busy weekend: I don’t know if I’ll get this build done or not. It may be after Christmas before I’m riding FG.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@dkel 102480 wrote:

All my parts are in! 😎

So, for installing the stem and bars, do I put grease on the clamping surfaces? The FSA parts that I got say to use their “installation compound,” but I don’t know what that is, and I don’t have any anyway.

It’s a busy weekend: I don’t know if I’ll get this build done or not. It may be after Christmas before I’m riding FG.

I do NOT grease the steerer or handlebar clamps on the stem. Pretty sure that’s common practice. I do grease the seat tube though…well, anti-seize, but same diff.

You should finish up your build and join the fixed gear cool kids at the HP100.

[dkel]

@TwoWheelsDC 102481 wrote:

I do NOT grease the steerer or handlebar clamps on the stem. Pretty sure that’s common practice. I do grease the seat tube though…well, anti-seize, but same diff.

I don’t know why I didn’t see this when I was reading my Zinn maintenance book last night, but I just read it again this morning, and he says to grease the clamping surface for both the bar and the steerer. Like seat tubes, the grease will keep the parts from seizing, and it will prevent creaking sounds. Not sure what I will do yet…I’d welcome even more votes from you FFF (Fine Forum Folks).

@TwoWheelsDC 102481 wrote:

You should finish up your build and join the fixed gear cool kids at the HP100.

Even if I finish the build in time for that, I have a feeling I would be a hazard out there as a total neophyte on his first FG. I will be riding around my neighborhood for a while first!

[hozn]

Yeah, grease or anti-seize (though be careful: the copper anti-seize leaves copper-colored stains). Or carbon paste if you are concerned about bars slipping, though that shouldn’t be an issue if torqued correctly. Use a torque wrench.

[dkel]

@hozn 102485 wrote:

Yeah, grease or anti-seize (though be careful: the copper anti-seize leaves copper-colored stains). Or carbon paste if you are concerned about bars slipping, though that shouldn’t be an issue if torqued correctly. Use a torque wrench.

I only have an old torque wrench for automotive applications, so it only reads foot-pounds. It was great for the crank and bottom bracket, but it doesn’t have a scale that reads small amounts of torque accurately at all.

[hozn]

Well, torque carefully, I guess. At least it isn’t carbon.

[Vicegrip]

@dkel 102486 wrote:

I only have an old torque wrench for automotive applications, so it only reads foot-pounds. It was great for the crank and bottom bracket, but it doesn’t have a scale that reads small amounts of torque accurately at all.

I have the right torque wrench and and in falls church. Get the fasteners close, ride over and we can go over the bike with the torque wrench. once you get the feel for what 5 or 7 nm feels like it gets easier to guesstimate.

[dkel]

@Vicegrip 102490 wrote:

I have the right torque wrench and and in falls church. Get the fasteners close, ride over and we can go over the bike with the torque wrench. once you get the feel for what 5 or 7 nm feels like it gets easier to guesstimate.

This is great. I may PM you when I get everything together. I also may try to get myself the right torque wrench, but it may be faster to pay you a visit.

[hozn]

I have a 5nm torque key. They aren’t cheap either, but most things seem to be 5-6nm, so that works well to just keep in the shed. I have a couple larger proper torque wrenches for when I need something that isn’t 5nm. E.g. 18Nm saddle bolt or 45Nm SRAM crankarms (I learned the expensive way that SRAM/Truvativ crankarms must be torqued to spec). Of course you are welcome to borrow them, but I suspect Vice Grip is closer to you — and I am sure he has better tools

[dkel]

I was looking at this just now. It goes from just over 2nm to just over 22nm, and isn’t too expensive. Add a 1/4 in to 3/8 in drive adapter, and it will go with the metric hex sockets I already have.

[peterw_diy]

Why hasn’t Dismal jumped in to chide you for worrying so much about exact torque? When I was a kid, we adjusted stem bolts with simple crescent wrenches, what’s wrong with you folks, etc.?

Seriously though if you’re gonna go all OCD on this, Harbor Freight has wreches for half that price.

[dkel]

Done!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]7249[/ATTACH]

[TwoWheelsDC]

@dkel 102822 wrote:

Done!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]7249[/ATTACH]

#slamthatstem

[dkel]

@TwoWheelsDC 102827 wrote:

#slamthatstem

Ha. Yeah, that’s as low as that one gets, I’m sorry to say. I liked that quill adapter because it has a lip on it to keep the stem from sliding down (not that it needs it, really), but I found out it is too long. If my back holds up to the lower bar position (lower than my other bike), I may get a shorter quill adapter. For now, I’m going to try and learn to ride it as is without it bucking me off.

[DismalScientist]

You’ll probably want to upgrade that frame.:rolleyes:

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