I did a bad bad thing…….

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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 30 total)
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  • #997063
    vvill
    Participant

    @bluerider 80851 wrote:

    Any input or opinons are welcomed. I am trying to build a great commuting and touring rig with racks and fenders.

    Frame: 56cm Salsa Vaya in Smokey Robinson blue

    Make it a 54 so I can borrow it. :D

    Great looking selection of parts (…not that I’ve used any of them)
    I’ve always wanted to try the Cowbell/Woodchipper style flared dropbars before. Same goes for those TRP brakes.
    28/36 should give you great gearing for loaded touring too.

    #997064
    KelOnWheels
    Participant

    @vvill 80875 wrote:

    Make it a 54 so I can borrow it. :D

    Yeah, what he said! :D

    #998134
    bluerider
    Participant

    Internal Rustproofing is complete. It starts now. Parts are slowly being chosen and ordered.

    E3EB8053-7A11-443F-9FB8-500133F85158_zps5ldhaerl.jpg

    #1000806
    bluerider
    Participant

    And its done. I have a couple small things to add and some adjustments to make but its fitted and rolled. The steering tube will be cut once I am sure on the stem height.

    2014-05-09065030_zps9f88ebed.jpg

    2014-05-09064656_zps736fb51a.jpg

    2014-05-09064712_zpsc61e5df7.jpg

    2014-05-09064722_zps1b6d7d8d.jpg

    #1000807
    bluerider
    Participant

    2014-05-09064739_zpsf4cbf318.jpg

    2014-05-09064754_zpsebb64e90.jpg

    2014-05-09065046_zpsc4ff66d4.jpg

    2014-05-09065143_zps34cd7f4e.jpg

    #1000808
    Harry Meatmotor
    Participant

    dude – that thing is freakin’ BOSS!!!

    #1000811
    dkel
    Participant

    Wow. Soooo nice. Congratulations on that primo build.

    #1000813
    peterw_diy
    Participant

    The bike looks great, but I wouldn’t cut the steerer tube! If spacers above the stem really bug you, consider flipping the stem so you keep more of that irreplaceable steerer tube!

    #1000815
    hozn
    Participant

    Nice build! How do the Hy/Rd work? Having used Spyres now for awhile on commuter and road bikes, I will say I really like them, but the stock rotors are not great; the brakes work much better (stop faster) paired with the Avid HSX rotors on my road bike.

    Are those old-school friction shifters?

    I would definitely cut the stem, I dunno what peter_diy is talking about :)

    #1000826
    Harry Meatmotor
    Participant

    one real quick nit to pick – tho the spacer on the ND fork fender mount is clever, i’m seeing catastrophic failure the first time something whacks into that mount (and those rack/fender mounts are pretty easy to bend/ruin). what i’d recommend (of you’re not planning on running a set of low-boy front pannies) is to run the fender stays to the mid-fork braze on. not quite as classy looking, but much less exposed to possibly bending and ruining the threads on the dropout rack mount. my 2 pennies.

    edit2 – you might even be able to run the fender stays to the interior mid-stay braze-on, depending on how wide the tires are and how tightly that bends the stays. might actually be pretty trick since you’ll keep the exterior braze-on to mount up some low-boys.

    @hozn 84882 wrote:

    How do the Hy/Rd work?

    My experience so far at the shop is that they’re a compromise. They pretty much require the Yokozuna compressionless housing, and good luck getting the OEMs to spec housing that’s 5-6 times more expensive than bulk non-compressionless. If you’re doing a frame up build and use the Reaction housing, the HY/RDs will probably feel pretty good.

    #1000841
    hozn
    Participant

    @Harry Meatmotor 84896 wrote:

    My experience so far at the shop is that they’re a compromise. They pretty much require the Yokozuna compressionless housing, and good luck getting the OEMs to spec housing that’s 5-6 times more expensive than bulk non-compressionless. If you’re doing a frame up build and use the Reaction housing, the HY/RDs will probably feel pretty good.

    Yeah, I am running Reaction housing with the Spyres and they feel great, but you’re right that it is damn expensive stuff. My only other issue with the dual-piston design is that the calipers stick out more on the inboard side. I get spokes rubbing with (front) wheel flex with the BHS hubs. The Novatec hubs on road wheels don’t have this problem. I imagine the design is different enough that this would not apply to the Hy/Rd.

    #1001056
    bluerider
    Participant

    Hozn,
    The TRP Hy-Rd so far is amazing. There is a lot of braking power and the lever feel is very nice. I read a lot of complaints about feel with SRAM levers. The newest version took care of this problem. The brakes are very impressive and super quiet.

    #1001060
    bluerider
    Participant

    Harry,
    I am waiting on a Tubus Nova stainless front rack to mount the fenders. The spacer is specifically spec’d by PDW for their fenders but I agree with you. Its a little exposed and looks a little strange. It will be changed soon. Thankfully, I didn’t need to use them in the rear.

    #1001061
    bluerider
    Participant

    Hozn,
    I almost forgot. The shifters are sort of old school friction. They are SRAM 500TT shifters with the mounting bodies removed. Then mounted on Paul Components Thumbies. Indexed in the rear, friction on the front. Easily accessible with my thumb and fore finger. Plus, DIRT SIMPLE.

    #1001062
    bluerider
    Participant

    For those interested, I placed the entire build component list on my blog, The DCyclist. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Yesterday, I added some Paul Components skewers to it which really look awesome.

    http://dcyclist.wordpress.com/the-bikes-of-the-dcyclist/

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