Help! What do I do?! WWYD? (spoke broke)
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@krazygl00 28301 wrote:
The trick is to make sure said wheelsmith does the truing before you give him the beer.
If I drink half the beer then I won’t notice
@eminva 28324 wrote:
More than that! Don’t you think those kids will be riding one of these days?
Liz
Well, the bigger one is on a Skuut and I don’t think that you can true a wooden wheel and I DO need to thin the herd a bit, so it will even out.
@Brendan von Buckingham 28308 wrote:
Local wheel builder, http://www.billmouldwheels.com/school.html, has concluded that 180 pounds is the threshold when weight of the rider + portage becomes an issue for spoke tension and wheel design. Whether that’s the right number or not, who knows, but your weight is something to consider.
Well, that’s the design target for the lightweight decorative wheels rather than some inherent limitation.
You can do much, much, much more weight on a stronger wheel. I did a towpath tour recently with at least 350 pounds between the bike, the weehoo, me, the kid, the stuff, etc. (DT Swiss 36 spoke TK540) Or see tandem touring wheels with 40 or 48 spokes that handle 500 pounds on 2 wheels.@mstone 28336 wrote:
Well, that’s the design target for the lightweight decorative wheels rather than some inherent limitation.
You can do much, much, much more weight on a stronger wheel. I did a towpath tour recently with at least 350 pounds between the bike, the weehoo, me, the kid, the stuff, etc. (DT Swiss 36 spoke TK540) Or see tandem touring wheels with 40 or 48 spokes that handle 500 pounds on 2 wheels.I think the bottom line is that this is a “road bike”, meant for “racing” on the “race lite” wheels it has. I’m trying to commute on it, an inherently abusive riding task with weather, rough trails and streets, an occasional curb, front of a metro bus, rain, road grime/spray, etc. Add to that my weight (210ish) and all the other stuff I carry (lights, lock, full pockets, tool bag, etc) and I’m probably being pretty hard on a bike that is maybe meant for a bit lighter-weight usage. I’m trying to say this diplomatically because I *absolutely LOVE my Trek*. I just think I’m expecting it to perform in a situation it wasn’t meant for.
Of course, this all may be just my per-rationalization for buying another new bike. I already have it picked out, just waiting for the sale
http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebikes/road/aurora/12_bosanova.html
I also have that old Miyata. I’ve stalled on the build for it as I’ve found issues with it that I want to re-build “right”. Which basically means a lot of money dumped in to it. More than the Jamis will cost. I’ll re-build the Miyata at a slower pace and make it a long-distance touring bike, the Jamis will be my commuter, and my Trek will be my tri/”race” bike (I don’t race, I’m just a pathlete/strava-wannabe).
@Certifried 28341 wrote:
I think the bottom line is that this is a “road bike”, meant for “racing” on the “race lite” wheels it has. I’m trying to commute on it, an inherently abusive riding task with weather, rough trails and streets, an occasional curb, front of a metro bus, rain, road grime/spray, etc. Add to that my weight (210ish) and all the other stuff I carry (lights, lock, full pockets, tool bag, etc) and I’m probably being pretty hard on a bike that is maybe meant for a bit lighter-weight usage. I’m trying to say this diplomatically because I *absolutely LOVE my Trek*. I just think I’m expecting it to perform in a situation it wasn’t meant for.
That’s why I call them decorative wheels, as opposed to wheels for doing things.
To be fair, they work fine for a lot of people and for a lot of situations, and built well they can successfully carry a load and last a long time–there’s just a lot less margin for problems. (Things like weight, road surface, bad day at the wheelbuilder, etc.)
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