Going from a triple to a double – what don’t I know?

[TwoWheelsDC]

@jrenaut 157907 wrote:

This would be super helpful except now I’m looking at Shimano’s website and it appears that they do not sell a 10 speed road derailleur that will take an 11-42 cassette. This is clearly going to require some more research.

Are you trying to make this work with an existing chain ring? Easy solution is to just use a smaller ring up front so you don’t need a platter-sized cog in the back.

[drevil]

Call me ig’nant, but why can’t he just use a medium cage 10-speed mtn rear derailleur with his 10-speed brifters? Is the leverage ratio/cable pull different betwixt the Shimano 10-speed brifters and 10-speed mountain shifters?

[Harry Meatmotor]

@drevil 157925 wrote:

Is the leverage ratio/cable pull different betwixt the Shimano 10-speed brifters and 10-speed mountain shifters?

Yes, road 10 speed isn’t compatible with Dyna-Sys (MTB 10 speed). Basically, any shimano rDer with Shadow routing won’t work with road cable pull (that I’m aware of…). There are pulley adapters, but they don’t like getting dirty. I wouldn’t call them a good long term/high milage solution.

Generally, I’d recommend running a road shifter and derailleur setup with the Wolftooth drop link, and a 1x narrow-wide chainring. If you manage to drop chains on multiple occasions, consider running a chain guide like the ones from K-Edge or the upcoming one from Wolftooth.

(but, I’m patiently awaiting shimano’s rumored 1x cross gruppo…)

[vvill]

Gevenalle also make brif… integrated shifters compatible with 10 speed Shimano MTB (amongst other options). Pricey though.

https://gevenalle.com/shifters/

[Harry Meatmotor]

@vvill 157931 wrote:

Gevenalle also make brif… integrated shifters compatible with 10 speed Shimano MTB (amongst other options). Pricey though.

https://gevenalle.com/shifters/

notice something?

[jrenaut]

@jrenaut 154907 wrote:

So I was looking at a gear inch calculator. I’m currently 50/39/30 and 10 speed 12-30. The gear inches in gears I actually use on a regular basis range from 43 to 103. If I switched to 48 and 11-42, that would be 30 to 116. I’d never really thought about that

From earlier in the thread – I’m essentially trying to replicate the gear range i currently use at 3X10 with a 1X10. Pretty sure the whole drivetrain is shot so the only thing I was hoping to save was the brifter.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@jrenaut 157933 wrote:

From earlier in the thread – I’m essentially trying to replicate the gear range i currently use at 3X10 with a 1X10. Pretty sure the whole drivetrain is shot so the only thing I was hoping to save was the brifter.

A 44t chainring with an 11-32 cassette will get you basically what you’re looking for. I’m currently running an 11-32 cassette on my road bike with standard 10spd 105 medium cage derailleur (32 is definitely the max…). Going that route would let you keep your shifter and *potentially* your rear derailleur (assuming you don’t have chain drop issues).

[jrenaut]

@TwoWheelsDC 157935 wrote:

A 44t chainring with an 11-32 cassette will get you basically what you’re looking for. I’m currently running an 11-32 cassette on my road bike with standard 10spd 105 medium cage derailleur (32 is definitely the max…). Going that route would let you keep your shifter and *potentially* your rear derailleur (assuming you don’t have chain drop issues).

Good idea. And if I have chain drop issues I can always change the derailleur later, or go with Harry’s chain guide advice.

[hozn]

http://www.jtekengineering.com/shiftmate/shiftmate-compatibility-charts-choices/

Shiftmate 6?

I would probably get a SRAM RD and use a shiftmate. Then you are 1 step closer to having a better shifting group Plus SRAM 10sp road/mtb RD will work with 11sp road, so forward compatible.

Plus SRAM really supports 1x much better.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@hozn 157937 wrote:

http://www.jtekengineering.com/shiftmate/shiftmate-compatibility-charts-choices/

Shiftmate 6?

I would probably get a SRAM RD and use a shiftmate. Then you are 1 step closer to having a better shifting group Plus SRAM 10sp road/mtb RD will work with 11sp road, so forward compatible.

Plus SRAM really supports 1x much better.

Based on the limited time I’ve had it, I LOVE SRAM shifting. Going to convert my road bike to 11spd SRAM (+tubeless) this summer. Switching completely is definitely the better option, but obviously is going to be costlier and more labor intensive.

[Harry Meatmotor]

@jrenaut 157933 wrote:

From earlier in the thread – I’m essentially trying to replicate the gear range i currently use at 3X10 with a 1X10. Pretty sure the whole drivetrain is shot so the only thing I was hoping to save was the brifter.

Seriously, if you’re replacing most of the drivetrain, I’d say switch over to SRAM 1x.

SRAM shifters brift so much better than Shimano. They shrake so much better, too.

[jrenaut]

@Harry Meatmotor 157948 wrote:

Seriously, if you’re replacing most of the drivetrain, I’d say switch over to SRAM 1x.

SRAM shifters brift so much better than Shimano. They shrake so much better, too.

This sounds like great advice, but it at least doubles the cost, right? I have to replace chain, cranks, and cassette. If I stick with Shimano I can probably leave my brake/shifter combo and my rear derailleur.

[Harry Meatmotor]

@jrenaut 157950 wrote:

This sounds like great advice, but it at least doubles the cost, right? I have to replace chain, cranks, and cassette. If I stick with Shimano I can probably leave my brake/shifter combo and my rear derailleur.

Running SRAM Rival 22 (right hand/rear shift combo) would be like $100 or so. One other question – does the bike run full length housing for the shifting?

[jrenaut]

@Harry Meatmotor 157962 wrote:

Running SRAM Apex 22 (right hand/rear shift combo) would be like $100 or so. One other question – does the bike run full length housing for the shifting?

Yeah but not switching to SRAM costs $0 and takes less time.

No to full length housing – it’s just to the top of the downtube and then the last few inches. Mostly exposed cable.

[hozn]

@jrenaut 157950 wrote:

This sounds like great advice, but it at least doubles the cost, right? I have to replace chain, cranks, and cassette. If I stick with Shimano I can probably leave my brake/shifter combo and my rear derailleur.

You don’t need to replace the crank, I don’t think. I thought you were replacing the cassette already? And yes, you have to replace chain either way.

RD needs to be replaced if you want a clutch RD. E.g. Apex 1 long-cage.

And you need/want a narrow-wide ring.

But yeah, I could see things start adding up if you go all-in for new drivetrain+group.

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