Generator / dynomo hubs and lights

[FFX_Hinterlands]

If you’re worried about speeds over 20mph, then the weight of the dyno setup alone is probably enough to dissuade you. Better yet, just don’t ride in the dark or carry any commuting stuff because it will slow you down .

Not to be too snarky but the dynamo drag and extra weight is not going to cost you more than 45 seconds on an 8 mile commute. If you’re worried about 45 seconds then there are books and relaxation techniques for you to help with that type of thing. #lovemycommute

[hozn]

The weight was only half serious; the wires would probably bother me more. But it is >1lb and a half dozen watts of drag; since my “commuter” is also my winter fast-ride bike, my cx bike, etc., I can’t really resign it to being a pack mule — or resign myself to “just riding along”.

[worktheweb]

FWIW my Schmidt SON hasn’t given me vibration in my riding up to 40+ mph. For the helmet light issue, I use one too, and I have to charge it periodically, but the real win for me is never getting stranded in the dark. If the helmet light fails, I still see very well.

[Raymo853]

After pricing things out, I am still planning to get a dynamo hub, a cheaper one, and a light that is not crazy expensive, a Herman’s H-One. This setup is going to go on my commute only bike, so I will not be too concerned about weight or higher speed vibration problems. I want it cheap enough I will not have to worry about theft. Not saying being cheap will keep it from being stolen, just if it is stolen it is less of a loss.

What I want out of the dynamo powered light is a a see me type without blinding or annoying on-coming bikes. Plan to mount it around 30″ high on the fork or front rack. After the install, I hope I never have to think about the hub, headlight or rear flasher much this winter. Will still use my L&M Urban units for me to see and batter powered flashers to augment the rear.

http://www.intelligentdesigncycles.com/shop/dynamo-headlamps/herrmans/herrmans-h-one-s.html
http://www.intelligentdesigncycles.com/shop/dynamo-wheels-and-wheelsets/intelligent-design-cycles/idc-stout.html
http://www.intelligentdesigncycles.com/shop/herrmans-h-track.html

[Steve O]

@hozn 124719 wrote:

Vibrating handlebars above 20mph sounds like sorta a big deal !??

I have never noticed any vibration with my Schmidt at any speed. @hozn 124719 wrote:

(1) wheel interchangeability

I have my “winter”wheel and my summer wheel. It’s true that the rims are not identical, so I have to make a minor adjustment on the front brake cable adjuster and I have to spin the quick release a little more or less with each one. Still less than 2 minutes. @hozn 124719 wrote:

(2) Helmet light. I use both a helmet and a bar-mounted light when it’s dark. I’m not sure I see a way to avoid recharging the helmet light, at which point plugging in two things to recharge is only marginally more “work” than plugging in one.

Likewise. I like the helmet light for flashing drivers in the eyes. I’m with worktheweb in that I KNOW I will always have a light. @hozn 124719 wrote:

(3) Weight, rolling resistance. The dyno hubs are frickin’ heavy. I’m sure the weight wouldn’t be a big deal in practice, but I’m commuting on the flat W&OD, so I don’t want a setup that’s gonna start shaking above 20mph.

No shaking unless something is wrong. What I noticed with my years commuting on the CCT was not that I felt the hub slowed me down, but that I was a little faster in April when I switched back to the summer wheel. The drag is there, but it’s fairly subtle. That said, I set the original KOM (since broken) on Geo. Mason from Yorktown to Lee Hwy in the winter with my dynohub running and a pannier, so it can’t be that bad. @hozn 124719 wrote:

(4) I have to pull my lights off when it’s locked in parking garage at work anyway, which erases the huge convenience factor of not needing to remove the lights for charging.

My dyno light is permanently mounted on my bicycle and would require a tool kit and removal of the front brake to steal. Besides, the only person who would want it is someone else with a dyno hub. Mine stays on year round and has been locked up in garages, on streets, at happy hours, and everywhere.

[bradallen226]

Most of the elements are cheap, and you can diy, but the easiest solution means restoring the charge pattern every time you slowly down, and that will eliminate the product battery power pretty quick.

[Raymo853]

@Steve O 124792 wrote:

.My dyno light is permanently mounted on my bicycle and would require a tool kit and removal of the front brake to steal. Besides, the only person who would want it is someone else with a dyno hub. Mine stays on year round and has been locked up in garages, on streets, at happy hours, and everywhere.

Do not assume thieves act logically. some one may try to steal your light with no idea what a dynamo hub is.

[Raymo853]

I finally got my dynamo hub, a Shimano DH-3N71 center lock built into a Salsa Delago Cross rim. Just what I wanted, one that can use rim or disc brakes. $165 on flea bay with a 1 watt Planet Bike dynamo light.

I am sitting here at work so wishing I could be home trying it out. Plan to get a better headlight and tail light, some day.

[dasgeh]

Basic question: if I have a disc ready wheel, can I rebuild that wheel with a dynahub? How long would it take a first time wheel builder? What would I need, aside from basic bike tools?

[hozn]

@dasgeh 125858 wrote:

Basic question: if I have a disc ready wheel, can I rebuild that wheel with a dynahub? How long would it take a first time wheel builder? What would I need, aside from basic bike tools?

If you have a wheel with the same number of spokes as the dyno hub you have/want, then you could reuse the rim. But you would be throwing away the spokes (in the recycle bin, as they’re not really worth reusing IMO) and then left with a backup hub. For reference a basic/decent disc-brake rim is around $50, a higher-end (e.g. tubeless-ready) rim probably closer to $75; spokes are around $1 each.

To build a wheel you obviously need
(1) the parts for the wheel: rim, hub, spokes, nipples, nipple washers (not technically required, but I would recommend using them — esp. on a disc-brake wheel).
(2) the tools: a spoke wrench, a truing stand, a nipple driver, a tensionometer (or the iphone app).
(3) time: I would estimate 3 hours for building a wheel for the first time. Assuming careful attention to detail (i.e. not having to redo the lacing). It helps to have optional tools like a tool to insert the nipples (so they don’t get lost in the rim, which can add significant time).

I’m happy to lend any/all of the above tools (say, for 2-3 weeks, since I do eventually need to sit down and build a couple wheels myself).

I would recommend just buying a new rim rather than destroying a good wheel for the sake of reusing just the rim, since the lower end (~$50) isn’t too expensive.

Or obviously just buy the dyno wheel complete, though I would always trust something I’d laced and tensioned myself (even if it was a first wheel build) over a wheel someone/something else built for mass sale.

[Raymo853]

@dasgeh 125858 wrote:

Basic question: if I have a disc ready wheel, can I rebuild that wheel with a dynahub? How long would it take a first time wheel builder? What would I need, aside from basic bike tools?

Honz gave a good answer. In support, I once planned to do what you were thinking: buy a Shimano Dynamo hub (~$110), 32 spokes, nipples, spoke prep, washers, (~$50) and build up my own wheel using a Delago Cross rim I have sitting around. But it was not worth it, even if I paid myself just $10/hour it was much cheaper to get the one I got.

[hozn]

@Raymo853 125868 wrote:

Honz gave a good answer. In support, I once planned to do what you were thinking: buy a Shimano Dynamo hub (~$110), 32 spokes, nipples, spoke prep, washers, (~$50) and build up my own wheel using a Delago Cross rim I have sitting around. But it was not worth it, even if I paid myself just $10/hour it was much cheaper to get the one I got.

Yeah, this is definitely true. It will always be cheaper to get a pre-built wheel. If your other option is to pay a shop $100-200 to build it for you, then it is probably cheaper to build it yourself.

So, yeah, using Raymo’s numbers for hub, I would estimate that this wheel would cost somewhere in the $200-$225 range depending on rim choice.

[bentbike33]

@hozn 125860 wrote:

It helps to have optional tools like a tool to insert the nipples (so they don’t get lost in the rim, which can add significant time).

This optional tool is an extra spoke you won’t be using in the new wheel. Put the nipple on the tool-spoke backwards (i.e., fat-end first) a few turns, then feed it through the rim to the intended spoke. As you twist the nipple onto the spoke in the wheel, it simultaneously removes itself from the tool-spoke.

[hozn]

@bentbike33 125873 wrote:

This optional tool is an extra spoke you won’t be using in the new wheel. Put the nipple on the tool-spoke backwards (i.e., fat-end first) a few turns, then feed it through the rim to the intended spoke. As you twist the nipple onto the spoke in the wheel, it simultaneously removes itself from the tool-spoke.

Yeah, I used to do this. I now have a dedicated tool that is a bit faster. Of course, it probably only saves 10 seconds per spoke.

[Starduster]

@Raymo853 125855 wrote:

I finally got my dynamo hub, a Shimano DH-3N71 center lock built into a Salsa Delago Cross rim. Just what I wanted, one that can use rim or disc brakes. $165 on flea bay with a 1 watt Planet Bike dynamo light.

I am sitting here at work so wishing I could be home trying it out. Plan to get a better headlight and tail light, some day.

*Better* is out there, from Busch+Muller, SON/Schmidt, and Supernova, available from peterwhitecycles.com or someone who buys from him.

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