Generator / dynomo hubs and lights

[Raymo853]

Since the Lights 2015 thread has grown a bit long and is covering diverse aspects, how about one just on dynomo lights. I am considering going the generator hub route. My dream hub is either a Shutter Precision PD-8X Thru-Axle Dynamo Front Hub ($220) or Schmidt SON 28 Thru-Axel ($340). Going to build it into a Velocity Dyad, Stan’s Alpha 400, Pacenti SL23, or DT Swiss R 460. Anyone got any insight into hubs? I have heard form many how grand the Schmidt hubs are. I worry about the SP’s not having user replaceable bearings.

I have only begun to look into the lights. The idea is to first first get one of the headlight and taillight setups that meet the German standards about being considerate to oncoming traffic. Those seem to range from $50 to $125. Some day I will get a SuperNova ones designed for off-road racing and are illegal for regular road use in Germany.

Topic

[bentbike33]

Given what you know about dynamo hubs, you’ve probably already read the volumes of material at http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/lightingsystems.htm, but if not, give it a look. He evaluates many different kinds of dynamo-powered lights using side-by-side photos of light output.

I run 2 Inoled 20’s in parallel from a Shimano hub (because I’m cheap). They provide plenty of light to see by with a cut-off at the top of the beam, and have a capacitor that discharges slowly while stopped (called a “stand light”) powering the lights at about half intensity to be seen. I leave them on all the time as day-time running lights.

[GovernorSilver]

That Schmidt SON looks pretty sweet.

My bike came with a Shimano 3W dynamo hub, and B&M lights (the cheapest models). The bike weighs almost 35 lbs unloaded, so I can’t say that hub drag is a factor – any drag it introducers might be more noticeable on a 21lb bike.

[Raymo853]

I love the Peter White’s info. Based on his data, I would get one of the newer Shimano units if they were offered with a 15MM option without hesitation.

[AFHokie]

Is anyone running a set up that in addition to lights allows you to charge cell phones, GPS units, etc?

[Raymo853]

@AFHokie 124144 wrote:

Is anyone running a set up that in addition to lights allows you to charge cell phones, GPS units, etc?

That is something I wish to do as well. It seems many end up buying various modules that regulate and modulate the power. I was surprised by how much these cost, like $200 or so.

[mstone]

The power budget of a generator hub makes charging a modern phone iffy. To do it right usually involves an intermediate battery (which further reduces efficiency) and all the circuitry does end up being expensive for low volume manufacture. Most of the components are cheap, and you can diy, but the simplest solution means restarting the charge cycle every time you slow down, and that will destroy the device battery pretty quick.

[FFX_Hinterlands]

The type of light you will need depends on the speed at which you will ride. I have the Lumotec IQ Premium Fly RT Senso Plus is it works very well for my 12-14mph commute on the W&OD. I also like that is has daytime running lights, especially this time of year. I have a fender-mounted Secula taillight as well. I’m also perfectly happy with my Taylor Wheels (ordered via Amazon) $175 Shimano dynohub 36 spoke “trekking” wheel on my Handsome Devil . Here’s a bunch of Dynohub wheels from them.

Yes, you could pay more for a custom-made wheel, but why would you?

[Colin B]

I can’t even begin to describe how much I love never having to worry about batteries.

Based mostly on Peter White’s info I have two bikes with dyno setups: a Luxos B wired to the Shimano Alfine dynohub with a Secula plus on the rear and an Edelux 2 wired to a Shimano DH N-80 with a toplight line plus on the rear. the beam patterns on the Edelux and Luxos are pretty close, and it’s definitely worth the extra few bucks for the Schmidt. the plastic body of my Luxos has cracked already. if you have fenders, go for the Secula plus on the rear, it’s amazing—feels like wider than 180° visibility that is bright but not blinding. The drag on both hubs is basically not noticeable until you hit about 20mph, at which point I get some vibration up through the handlebars.

The Dhn80 is laced to Dyads, like you are suggesting, and they’ve been awesome. built them 2 or 3 years ago, ridden on single track, with 50lbs of groceries (not at the same time), toured on pavement and gravel, never had to true them once. They do kinda weigh a ton but who cares.

if you’re mechanically inclined I recommend building the wheels up yourself. it’s a fun and sort of zen experience if you’re Will to spend an afternoon and a few beers at it.

[Raymo853]

I have got close to a choice. I am going to get a Shimano hub, one of the ones Peter White says are close to the Schmidt’s efficiency. I am dropping the thru-axel idea, as it is not worth the extra $120 for a thing I might use.

I do plan to build it up myself, I have a Deldago Cross rim sitting around that will be a good match. Will allow it to be rim or disc brake and just about any tire from 25c to 2.25″

Next I will start thinking about a headlamp and taillight combo for the winter commuter hybrid bike this rim will go on to.

[Raymo853]

@Colin B 124215 wrote:

I can’t even begin to describe how much I love never having to worry about batteries.

You ended my fickleness about just sticking with battery lights with this line.

[worktheweb]

I have a Schmidt SON laced onto Velocity Dyads (built by Peter White himself) powering a Supernova E3 (old model) and a Supernova tail light. I have ridden it somewhere in the neighborhood of 10k miles without incident and I highly recommend the hub and the lights. The wheel has also never needed truing, either. He does a good job. The only time you notice the drag is if you’re moving the wheel by hand. I’ve never noticed any added slowness while riding. Having ample light all the time, and daytime running lights during the day really makes biking more enjoyable. I don’t have to worry about seeing or being seen, ever. As for phone charging, that’s something I haven’t hooked up yet, but I have heard good things about sinewave’s product, but since I have not tried it I can’t vouch for it personally.

[Raymo853]

@Colin B 124215 wrote:

I can’t even begin to describe how much I love never having to worry about batteries.

You ended my fickleness about just sticking with battery lights with this line.

[Bruno Moore]

@AFHokie 124144 wrote:

Is anyone running a set up that in addition to lights allows you to charge cell phones, GPS units, etc?

IIRC, Dirt has something like this.

[hozn]

@Colin B 124215 wrote:

The drag on both hubs is basically not noticeable until you hit about 20mph, at which point I get some vibration up through the handlebars.

Vibrating handlebars above 20mph sounds like sorta a big deal !??

I’ve considered building a dyno hub front wheel for the winter, but a few things keep me from pulling the trigger:
(1) wheel interchangeability — w/o caliper adjustment. I replace my cx tires with studded tires on my spare wheelset for the few weeks we need them. I want to be able to change wheelsets in under 2 minutes in the dark. My current wheels are built on the same hubs, so this works great.
(2) Helmet light. I use both a helmet and a bar-mounted light when it’s dark. I’m not sure I see a way to avoid recharging the helmet light, at which point plugging in two things to recharge is only marginally more “work” than plugging in one.
(3) Weight, rolling resistance. The dyno hubs are frickin’ heavy. I’m sure the weight wouldn’t be a big deal in practice, but I’m commuting on the flat W&OD, so I don’t want a setup that’s gonna start shaking above 20mph.
(4) I have to pull my lights off when it’s locked in parking garage at work anyway, which erases the huge convenience factor of not needing to remove the lights for charging.

Sounds like a variation on the backpack vs. rack debate

Edit: added 4

[GovernorSilver]

@hozn 124719 wrote:

Vibrating handlebars above 20mph sounds like sorta a big deal !??

I have not experienced excessive vibration in either my stock swept handlebar or my newly installed trekking bar when hitting 20 mph or faster, fwiw.

All I get is the normal “road chatter” that is spread throughout this bike and its aluminum frame, not isolated in the handlebar.

The wilder claim I recently read that it is not possible to descend as fast as 30 mph with a dyno hub. My response to that is to just go down Braddock Rd., eastward from Valley Rd. or Ridge Rd. Its 10% grade will overcome any dyno hub drag. I hit 30 going down that, and that’s with brakes being applied to modulate speed.

[Author]

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