Drive train dilemmas

[TwoWheelsDC]

@Sunyata 161946 wrote:

I am going to assume that you have not read my DK200 race report. I will give you a short synopsis…

Every person I saw with a busted drive train had a Shimano build. This may be coincidence, but…

Or…maybe all the SRAM riders just carried the necessary repair tools * Either way, not a good look for Shimano…

*Worry not. Not only will I be rolling with SRAM, but I will also be carrying plenty of tools for GRUSK.

[Vicegrip]

@TwoWheelsDC 161954 wrote:

Or…maybe all the SRAM riders just carried the necessary repair tools * Either way, not a good look for Shimano…

*Worry not. Not only will I be rolling with SRAM, but I will also be carrying plenty of tools for GRUSK.

Or the law of averages came in to play with 90% of the drive trains being Shimano. Often times care of the equipment trumps brand.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@Vicegrip 161959 wrote:

Or the law of averages came in to play with 90% of the drive trains being Shimano. Often times care of the equipment trumps brand.

Oh I don’t disagree, I was just making a joke based on a story from Sunyata’s DK200 ride. That said, I’d wager that in a gravel race like DK200, SRAM probably is closer to a 1:1 in representation given it’s leadership in that segment. I’ll be interested to see how it is at GRUSK. Frankly, I won’t be surprised if SRAM 1x setups are the norm and everything else is the exception.

[Sunyata]

@TwoWheelsDC 161954 wrote:

Or…maybe all the SRAM riders just carried the necessary repair tools * Either way, not a good look for Shimano…

OMG. I almost fell out of my chair laughing. 😎
Now this makes me wonder about the personality differences between those that choose SRAM and those that choose Shimano.

@Vicegrip 161959 wrote:

Or the law of averages came in to play with 90% of the drive trains being Shimano. Often times care of the equipment trumps brand.

Actually, SRAM tends to do very well in the gravel bike market. I would say that probably 60% of the drive trains out on the course were SRAM. (At least from what I could tell of bikes that I saw around town Thursday/Friday and from what I saw on the course from the middle to the back…)

Next year, perhaps I will do a non-scientific survey while I am out there!

[hozn]

To be fair to the original question, I don’t think there’s a huge reliability difference between Sram and Shimano. I wasn’t there (someday!), but would suggest that maybe for DK200, the difference might have been the more moving parts (i.e. front derailleur) of the Shimano systems just increasing the likelihood that something would go wrong. Shimano doesn’t have a 1x solution (that doesn’t require cobbling together third party components to increase RD capacity, or adapt cable pull, etc.). Though I would say that my experience has been that SRAM rear shifting does work better in harsh conditions, so that might have been a factor.

I like the size of the Shimano levers, but not a fan of all the plastic. My 5700 (105) levers started falling apart after a few years (I don’t remember exactly, but there was a piece in the lever blade that broke free, for example), but I was generally able to superglue them to keep things functional..

I’ve also crashed and broken a SRAM Force (carbon) lever but was able to order the parts for that and replace that myself, which was nice.

On my left SRAM HRD Force lever, the pin holding the brake lever blade started backing out during use. I have no idea why. I had to superglue that, which worked fine. Haven’t had that issue on my other Force 1 brake lever, so must have been some defect or something in that particular one.

But in general, I think SRAM is a great company. I wish SRAM components were cost-competitive with Shimano. I’d definitely consider Di2 for Shimano if going for a traditional (2×11) road-bike setup, though I don’t really see that in my future (heck, 3T just released an aero road bike designed for 1×12). I *do* prefer Shimano hydraulic brakes, but the difference in actual performance is not huge and I’m very happy with my SRAM brakes.

[ginacico]

Daunted by the price tag to go full SRAM, I’ve been pursuing the idea of sticking with Ultegra. It is nice stuff, the smooth feel is part of what makes this bike such a joy to ride, and presumably it would wind up cheaper.

@timo96 161899 wrote:

So this would work: http://www.jensonusa.com/!Ed6pKfDjL30EBhwz4OHsQQ!/Shimano-Deore-M591-9-SPD-Rear-Derailleur?

Jenson and LBS have both agreed, either this rear derailleur or the Road Link should work with an 11-36 cassette. Thanks for the clues!!

The next hurdle is, nobody can find replacement chainrings for the ones that are worn in the front. And if I have to get a whole new crankset, I’m not sure which ones are directly compatible. Vaya is only three years old, but it looks like the Ultegra 10-spd triple is officially obsolete……sigh.

@EasyRider 161914 wrote:

I’ve also got a 46/30 FSA crankset on that bike. I think FSA may be the first big maker to be offering this combo, which up to now has been kind of a boutique item. Seems like these cranks could be the key piece of the puzzle if you’re trying to have even lower gearing that what you have now, with a 30t granny ring on the Ultegra triple.

I like that idea too, but wouldn’t I have to change the front der and possibly shifter?

@Sunyata 161946 wrote:

I am going to assume that you have not read my DK200 race report.

Nonsense, of course I did! Reading about crazy adventures is sometimes more fun than actually doing them. 😎 Real point taken, C&O Canal gravel/mud is likely a contributor to what did in this drivetrain.

Appreciate all the input!

[bentbike33]

@ginacico 162026 wrote:

Vaya is only three years old, but it looks like the Ultegra 10-spd triple is officially obsolete……sigh.

I don’t know about that.

Although, you could probably re-shoe your current crank with these baubles:

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=23835&category=50
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=5320&category=50
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=35797&category=50

[TwoWheelsDC]

@ginacico 162026 wrote:

Vaya is only three years old, but it looks like the Ultegra 10-spd triple is officially obsolete……sigh.

Have you tried some of the European sites? Seems like triples are easier to find in Europe. For example:

https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=33550;menu=1000,4,122;mid%5B931%5D=1

[ginacico]

@bentbike33 162027 wrote:

I don’t know about that.

Maybe. To be more specific, current crankset is Ultegra 6750. I’m challenged to find direct replacements.

[hozn]

@ginacico 162031 wrote:

Maybe. To be more specific, current crankset is Ultegra 6750. I’m challenged to find direct replacements.

Are you sure? The 6750 is a compact double crankset. Maybe I misread above; I thought you had a triple currently.

The one linked above looks to be the correct replacement part — or get the 105 version (5703) if you want to save $100 and don’t care about saving a few grams. Edit: while the Salsa website doesn’t provide model number, I find references in online classified ads for this build having a FC-6703. You can also get that crankset for less than $200 on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC0.A0.H0.XFC-6703.TRS0&_nkw=FC-6703&_sacat=0

I would stick with a triple if you don’t want to mess with replacing your left shifter.

[ginacico]

@hozn 162033 wrote:

Are you sure? The 6750 is a compact double crankset. Maybe I misread above; I thought you had a triple currently.

Nope, totally not sure, and I was having the same confusion. The bike is in the shop, could’ve been a communication error but I’m waiting for them to call back and verify.

@hozn 162033 wrote:

The one linked above looks to be the correct replacement part — or get the 105 version (5703) if you want to save $100 and don’t care about saving a few grams. Edit: while the Salsa website doesn’t provide model number, I find references in online classified ads for this build having a FC-6703. You can also get that crankset for less than $200 on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC0.A0.H0.XFC-6703.TRS0&_nkw=FC-6703&_sacat=0

I would stick with a triple if you don’t want to mess with replacing your left shifter.

Yeah, that’s my inclination. And if FC-6703 is a drop-in replacement, that’s exactly what I’ll do (with change-ups in the rear). This is a 28+ pound [behemoth] absolute joy of a bike, before the rack and fenders. Standard caveat applies: if dropping weight is the goal, real effort should be focused on the engine. But I do opt for lighter parts when possible.

Thanks so much for your help!!

[bentbike33]

@ginacico 162038 wrote:

And if FC-6703 is a drop-in replacement, that’s exactly what I’ll do (with change-ups in the rear).

Probably no need to replace the whole crankset. You would just need the rings (recommend the source TwoWheelsDC posted, or let LBS get them), and the bottom bracket bearings. It’s really hard to wear out the cranks themselves.

[dbb]

Let me look at home. As part of the VVIL yard sale, I bought a Ultegra compact crankset as a “spare”. If you need it, it is available.

[ginacico]

@dbb 162041 wrote:

Let me look at home. As part of the VVIL yard sale, I bought a Ultegra compact crankset as a “spare”. If you need it, it is available.

Thanks dbb, but it turns out I’ll stick with the Ultegra triple. I confirmed model numbers with LBS, and the chainrings are readily available. Plan is to drop off a box of parts and let them do the build/tune. No ding on them, they’ve been more than cooperative, sometimes it just pays to do the research and hunt down parts myself.

With everyone’s help, of course, thanks all! I’m basically getting a new Ultegra drivetrain for pretty cheap, complete with lower gears. Maybe in another three years I’ll make a different decision, but right now I can’t wait to have Vaya back!

[hozn]

That sounds like the prudent choice! Nothing wrong with having lots of tightly spaced gears. Especially for touring I can imagine that having small gear steps would be very appreciated.

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