Considering a Steel Cyclocross Frame

[TwoWheelsDC]

I was lusting after this today. The configurable dropout design lets you run geared or SS/FG with skewers…really innovative.

http://www.traitorcycles.com/2013/Bikes_Crusade.cfm

[hozn]

+1 on the Traitor. I really want a reason to own that frame/bike, but I already have a bike in this category.

My thoughts:
– Get a 44mm (or tapered) head tube. Really opens up the possibility on changing out your forks. E.g. if my frame would support it, I’d be saving for a Whisky no 7 thru-axle fork. If you do run a QR fork, consider the 9mm thru-bolt instead.
– Get a frame with the rear caliper inside the triangle, especially if you want to run fenders. And make sure you can run full housing for the rear brake (assuming it is going down the downtube) or internal routing.
– Frame material really won’t matter for ride feel on a cx bike. Steel will likely be heavier and flexier than aluminum (e.g. RLT9). Of course, steel looks awesome.
– Give some consideration to seattube angle and your knee-over-pedal-spindle position. Use the competitive cyclist online fit calculator to calculate how many cm you need to be behind the BB. This will likely change the effective stack/reach numbers for your frames (or maybe not if STA is the same).
– I would get the steeper HT angle (e.g. 72.5 instead of 72) as it’s more versatile for road riding. Right now I have my hab cycles frame setup in “road mode”, since I have to repair my shifter on my road bike. It rides great as a road bike.
– Consider tire clearance and how versatile you want the frame to be. I think riding singletrack on 32mm tires works fine, but riding on 42mm tires is arguably more care-free. I was really psyched to find that I could fit big tires on my frame. Of course, if you are switching wheels between road and cx, you might not want a gaping frame that makes the road tires look silly-small.

And, of course, I will put in a plug for Habanero cycles. My HT is not 44mm, but I do like my frame a lot and at ~$1000 for titanium it’s a good value. Probably doing it again I’d pay the extra $500 and customize it (44mm HT, internal/di2-compatible cable routing, caliper insider the triangle).

[ATTACH=CONFIG]6296[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]6297[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]6298[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]6299[/ATTACH]

P.S. Nice work taking that 26th St. KOM yesterday. You’ll probably want to factor in frame stiffness here to ensure maximum power transfer to the road for when you have to work to get that back after I reclaim it (Just kidding. Mostly.)

[DismalScientist]

I think a big question is “Who’s paying for it?” :rolleyes:

[hozn]

(Per Dismal’s edit comment.) The Motobecane stuff is always an attractive option. The only issue I see with the Fantom cross ti frame is the 130mm rear spacing. With all (?) the other manufacturers are 135 — and some going 142×12, it seems like they need to abandon 130 rear spacing for a disc-brake frame.

[peterw_diy]

Soma Wolverine looks interesting, too.

[dkel]

I have a a Straggler that I use for commuting, and it’s fantastic. I have done some sloppy gravel rides on it, and the 41 Knards are superb on mixed surfaces (though they are too wide for competition, I’ve heard). Massive fork clearance for fenders and racks and such. I had to get a little creative for the rear fender mount to clear the disc, but it wasn’t difficult at all. If you are racing, the cable routing under the top tube seems in exactly the wrong place for shouldering the bike. Can’t beat the paint job, though. Mine’s a 54, which is too small for you, but you can PM me if you want to come out and see it.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]6300[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]6301[/ATTACH]

[hozn]

If I had to replace my CX bike, this is what I would buy. It is not steel, but it is almost carbon light and checks all my spec requirements. (And has geometry that would work for me; my femurs are too short for a STA less than 73 degrees.)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]6302[/ATTACH]

[dkel]

Look at Civilian, too. These are more designed for actual racing than the Surly, it seems.

[rcannon100]

Rule 12. His Allez is not even one year old.

[americancyclo]

@hozn 91162 wrote:

If I had to replace my CX bike, this is what I would buy. It is not steel, but it is almost carbon light and checks all my spec requirements. (And has geometry that would work for me; my femurs are too short for a STA less than 73 degrees.)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]6302[/ATTACH]

That’s the RLT right? That and the tamland are on my list for future gravel commuter bikes

[hozn]

@americancyclo 91177 wrote:

That’s the RLT right? That and the tamland are on my list for future gravel commuter bikes

Yeah, that is right, sorry didn’t specify. The Tamland also looks great but geometry isn’t quite right for me — and the straight 1 1/8 HT seems less than ideal.

If I were really replacing my CX bike, I would probably also look hard at Chinese carbon / open mold frames. Though those are probably too race-y for my needs.

[JeremyCannon]

@hozn 91156 wrote:

+1 on the Traitor. I really want a reason to own that frame/bike, but I already have a bike in this category.

My thoughts:
– Get a 44mm (or tapered) head tube. Really opens up the possibility on changing out your forks. E.g. if my frame would support it, I’d be saving for a Whisky no 7 thru-axle fork. If you do run a QR fork, consider the 9mm thru-bolt instead.
– Get a frame with the rear caliper inside the triangle, especially if you want to run fenders. And make sure you can run full housing for the rear brake (assuming it is going down the downtube) or internal routing.
– Frame material really won’t matter for ride feel on a cx bike. Steel will likely be heavier and flexier than aluminum (e.g. RLT9). Of course, steel looks awesome.
– Give some consideration to seattube angle and your knee-over-pedal-spindle position. Use the competitive cyclist online fit calculator to calculate how many cm you need to be behind the BB. This will likely change the effective stack/reach numbers for your frames (or maybe not if STA is the same).
– I would get the steeper HT angle (e.g. 72.5 instead of 72) as it’s more versatile for road riding. Right now I have my hab cycles frame setup in “road mode”, since I have to repair my shifter on my road bike. It rides great as a road bike.
– Consider tire clearance and how versatile you want the frame to be. I think riding singletrack on 32mm tires works fine, but riding on 42mm tires is arguably more care-free. I was really psyched to find that I could fit big tires on my frame. Of course, if you are switching wheels between road and cx, you might not want a gaping frame that makes the road tires look silly-small.

And, of course, I will put in a plug for Habanero cycles. My HT is not 44mm, but I do like my frame a lot and at ~$1000 for titanium it’s a good value. Probably doing it again I’d pay the extra $500 and customize it (44mm HT, internal/di2-compatible cable routing, caliper insider the triangle).

[ATTACH=CONFIG]6296[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]6297[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]6298[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]6299[/ATTACH]

P.S. Nice work taking that 26th St. KOM yesterday. You’ll probably want to factor in frame stiffness here to ensure maximum power transfer to the road for when you have to work to get that back after I reclaim it (Just kidding. Mostly.)

Thanks,
I’ve been looking at the whisky parts co forks, but the’d defienetely be something i’d upgrade to later.

Would you mind elaborating on your frame material comment? Are you saying that i’d feel no difference in ride quality between a aluminum/carbon for fork and a steel bike? I was actually looking at that niner before, and it’d probably be on the top of my aluminum list, especially with those paint jobs.

That Ti frame is definitely tempting, especially at that price, but maybe not quite tempting enough. How big a difference do you think Ti would make?/how well do you think it’d race?

P.S. It looks like i have some work to do on that segment now.

[JeremyCannon]

@dkel 91161 wrote:

I have a a Straggler that I use for commuting, and it’s fantastic. I have done some sloppy gravel rides on it, and the 41 Knards are superb on mixed surfaces (though they are too wide for competition, I’ve heard). Massive fork clearance for fenders and racks and such. I had to get a little creative for the rear fender mount to clear the disc, but it wasn’t difficult at all. If you are racing, the cable routing under the top tube seems in exactly the wrong place for shouldering the bike. Can’t beat the paint job, though. Mine’s a 54, which is too small for you, but you can PM me if you want to come out and see it.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]6300[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]6301[/ATTACH]

Thanks, that is actually very helpful in that i didn’t realize the cable routing is under the top tube, all that doesn’t totally count it out.

[JeremyCannon]

@peterw_diy 91160 wrote:

Soma Wolverine looks interesting, too.

Someone actually also recommended looking at the SOMAs today, and since you can just buy the frame without the fork from SOMA, i’d probably build it up with a whisky thru axle.

Because of the Surly’s Cable routing and looking of the SOMAs, this is my new short list(In Order):

1. All-City Macho Man Disc:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]6304[/ATTACH]
2. SOMA Double Cross Disc
[ATTACH=CONFIG]6305[/ATTACH]
3. Salsa Colosal 2 (2015)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]6307[/ATTACH]
4. Surly Stragler
[ATTACH=CONFIG]6306[/ATTACH]
5. Salsa Vaya 2 (2015)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]6308[/ATTACH]

Would anyone like to comment on that list, preferably the All-City since thats the front runner right now, or have any others that should be added?

[JeremyCannon]

and the Civilian Vive Le Roi would probably be on their too.

[Author]

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