Chinese Carbon Bike Build (CCBB or C2B2)

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  • August 4, 2015 at 2:25 pm #1035180
    GB
    Participant

    Hmmm…this might be my most serious issue so far. The rear derailleur hanger isn’t aligned properly with the frame in such a way that the remaining space is about 1mm too small for the rear wheel. The hanger is riveted in place or braze on so I can’t just loosen it and adjust. It’s likely that simply chipping away some paint will solve the problem. If that doesn’t work, should I:

    Bend the hanger
    File the hanger
    File the frame
    Take it to a shop where they could reattach the hanger

    Sorry about the terrible pics.

    August 4, 2015 at 2:40 pm #1035182
    DismalScientist
    Participant

    What is the point of a replaceable derailleur hanger that is not removable?

    If it is removeable, just file the hanger.

    August 4, 2015 at 2:51 pm #1035183
    GB
    Participant

    Maybe it is removable. The bolts on the painted side of the hanger look like they have a round head. But the hanger looks threaded on the unpainted side. So maybe there is a hex head hiding under the paint.

    August 4, 2015 at 6:17 pm #1035201
    dkel
    Participant

    Still got that hammer?

    Seriously, though, it looks like the paint is covering the opening for a hex key. That’s on the inside of the dropout, so futzing with the paint there won’t be noticeable with the wheel in anyway, right?

    August 4, 2015 at 6:57 pm #1035206
    hozn
    Participant

    @GB 121420 wrote:

    Maybe it is removable. The bolts on the painted side of the hanger look like they have a round head. But the hanger looks threaded on the unpainted side. So maybe there is a hex head hiding under the paint.

    Yes, I’m 90% sure that’s the case.

    FWIW, my RD hanger was also bent on my chinese carbon bike (or bent shortly after getting it setup). I now own a hanger alignment checker/bender tool. Also, I ordered a replacement hanger from WheelsMfg which is made of much sterner stuff.

    It is not entirely clear to me what you mean by the rear wheel (hub) not fitting in the frame, though; that doesn’t sound like a hanger issue ? Obviously I’m misunderstanding where the hub is hitting the hanger/frame.

    August 4, 2015 at 7:14 pm #1035213
    GB
    Participant

    Correct any messing with the paint will be completely or mostly hidden by the wheel.

    The rear wheel fits across the frame (I got the right size hub). It’s the little circular part of the hub that drops into the U in the frame/hanger that is just a little too wide.

    In the pic on the right you can see the skewer, the hub and the U. The issue is the hub can get all the into that U (it’s fine on the other side).

    August 5, 2015 at 2:21 pm #1035280
    DaveK
    Participant

    I know a couple of guys that ordered Chinese frames and both of them had to modify the dropouts with a file to get their wheels to sit square in the frame. It would sketch me out personally but both, as far as I know, are still alive.

    August 8, 2015 at 8:05 pm #1035524
    GB
    Participant

    OK so there were 2 issues.

    1. I was told the rotors were 160 front and back, but actually they are 160 front and 140 back. No big deal, I now have a spare front rotor.

    2. The hanger frame alignment was off and the rear wheel didn’t fit. Fortunately the hanger was removable as people suggested and my small hex wrench got it off. The wheel didn’t fit in the frame dropout without the hanger either so everything got a very light filing and now it fits! Hopefully the alignment is right, it looks true and I didn’t file much so I think it’ll be OK.

    August 8, 2015 at 8:31 pm #1035525
    peterw_diy
    Participant

    @GB 121800 wrote:

    The wheel didn’t fit in the frame dropout without the hanger either so everything got a very light filing and now it fits!

    Everything???

    August 8, 2015 at 9:45 pm #1035526
    hozn
    Participant

    Glad it fit!

    Those rotors you are using are boldly minimal!

    August 9, 2015 at 1:41 am #1035489
    GB
    Participant

    @peterw_diy 121801 wrote:

    Everything???

    Well the frame and the hanger at the point they were tight on the wheel hub.

    August 9, 2015 at 1:44 am #1035490
    GB
    Participant

    @hozn 121802 wrote:

    Those rotors you are using are boldly minimal!

    Yes. They got good reviews and were reasonablely priced. I’ll post a review after I’ve put some miles on them.

    August 10, 2015 at 6:40 pm #1035548
    GB
    Participant

    I’ve got 105 clips on my road bike and SPD clips on my MTB. The shoes I have for both are nearing the end of their lives (I mean are in great condition if I sell them). Is there a recommendation for a do it all clip system? Or is there a road system and a MTB system for a reason and I should stick with that?

    August 10, 2015 at 8:03 pm #1035465
    hozn
    Participant

    For a cross bike, you should assume you will be running up dirt embankments carrying your bike. You definitely want mtb/spd pedals if you have to walk.

    I think there is a less compelling case for road-specific pedals, but I like the extra platform area and secure lock they provide. There are definitely people running mtb pedals on road bikes (I ran egg beaters for awhile until I unclipped on an uphill sprint) but not vice versa.

    August 10, 2015 at 10:09 pm #1035607
    Lt. Dan
    Participant

    I use Time ATACs on both my road bike and MTB… Same shoes, and good float…..

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