Chinese Carbon Bike Build (CCBB or C2B2)

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  • Creator
    Topic
  • #916918
    GB
    Participant

    The background: I spent ~3 months researching/drooling over carbon frames on eBay, diving into other forums for reviews, and trying to find manufacturer’s websites. After more or less settling on the AC129 frame from ICAN (seems to previously done business as miracle) I reached out to them for pricing. It was $420 for frame and fork – I almost bought 2. Throw in everything else carbon and final price with 4 water bottle cages, 1 paint color ($50) and shipping ($80) was $740.

    I worked with Linda at ICAN and she was very helpful. It would have been nice if they published every dimension (I’m learning that there are several variable dimension that have to match in order to put a bike together, the following come to mind, seat tube diameter for the front derailleur clamp, the rear hub size needed, and the disc size). Linda was always able to answer my questions, generally in 24 hrs.

    After finally convincing my SO that what we really needed was another bike I sent payment via PayPal (Linda kept prompting me during our ~1 month long email exchange that I should pay them). After I paid, it took ~3 weeks to paint and ship the bike.

    Note: ICAN offers a full build with Ultegra and BB7s for ~$1,800. If I didn’t actively want to build the bike this seems like a good option, although I’m sceptical of any wheels Hozn didn’t build.

Viewing 15 replies - 31 through 45 (of 63 total)
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    Replies
  • #1034578
    GB
    Participant

    @hozn 120764 wrote:

    Huh, interesting! I haven’t seen that before, but it certainly looks clean to cross the cables.

    Yes between the internal cable tubes and the cross the cable routing on this frame is very nice. Although I wouldn’t have complained if the rear derailleur guide had continued inside the frame for longer.

    #1034579
    hozn
    Participant

    Agreed — very nice! Yeah, that looked really odd that they expect you to run open cable under that ds chainstay for rd. (Obviously you are OK, running sealed housing.)

    #1035015
    GB
    Participant

    This one fits! (With very non cross tires)

    #1035018
    mstone
    Participant

    @GB 121245 wrote:

    This one fits!

    With or without the big hammer?

    #1035024
    ShawnoftheDread
    Participant

    Rule 49 violation.

    #1035026
    hozn
    Participant

    Wow, that is whole lot of red accenting going on there! :-) — but I guess the saddle will be blue? It’s great to see it coming together! I still suggest your front brake hose run is wrong, but as long as you can turn the handlebars all the way in both directions it probably will function adequately. Shorter run is probably preferable though for the hydro fluid (and minimizing affects of temps on fluid?).

    Oh, don’t forget to put inline barrel adjust in for your FD. You might want one for your RD, though most road RDs have barrel adjusters on them, so it’s probably unnecessary to put one inline. When I switched to 1×10 with X9 RD, I discovered that the newer SRAM MTB derailleurs do not have one (so I had to cut my housing and add an inline adjuster).

    #1035027
    dkel
    Participant

    @hozn 121256 wrote:

    I still suggest your front brake hose run is wrong,

    I’m with hozn on this one. I’ve never seen a cable routed through the triangle like that. Whatever works, though.

    #1035033
    GB
    Participant

    This one not so much…maybe I need a smaller rotor?

    #1035035
    dkel
    Participant

    @GB 121264 wrote:

    This one not so much…maybe I need a smaller rotor?

    Or that hammer from the last pic…either way.

    #1035038
    ShawnoftheDread
    Participant

    Or an adapter for the caliper to fit the 160 mm rotor.

    #1035041
    GB
    Participant

    @hozn 121256 wrote:

    Wow, that is whole lot of red accenting going on there! :-) — but I guess the saddle will be blue? It’s great to see it coming together! I still suggest your front brake hose run is wrong, but as long as you can turn the handlebars all the way in both directions it probably will function adequately. Shorter run is probably preferable though for the hydro fluid (and minimizing affects of temps on fluid?).

    Oh, don’t forget to put inline barrel adjust in for your FD. You might want one for your RD, though most road RDs have barrel adjusters on them, so it’s probably unnecessary to put one inline. When I switched to 1×10 with X9 RD, I discovered that the newer SRAM MTB derailleurs do not have one (so I had to cut my housing and add an inline adjuster).

    Yes, these are the 50 shades I was referring to earlier.

    The jagwire came with in-line adjusters so they are installed. (Partly used to transition from 4mm housing at the brifters to Jags standard 5mm housing.)

    Yes, I’ve got full rotation on the handle bars (see earlier comment about lines being too long). I haven’t filled the brake lines yet so there’s still time for me to route this more traditionally. As for the length of the housing, it is still way shorter than the rear brake housing, so I’m not worried about from that perspective.

    The saddle is both blue and free. I’m just bidding my time until Dread realizes he doesn’t like his new (black and red) saddle and wants it gone fast.

    #1035042
    GB
    Participant

    @ShawnoftheDread 121254 wrote:

    Rule 49 violation.

    I knew the forum wouldn’t let me down.

    #1035043
    GB
    Participant

    @mstone 121248 wrote:

    With or without the big hammer?

    The hammer was used in the assembly of this bicycle. The carbon is strong with this one.

    #1035044
    GB
    Participant

    @ShawnoftheDread 121269 wrote:

    Or an adapter for the caliper to fit the 160 mm rotor.

    This is my preference. To the Google.

    … Nope, 140mm rotor needed. To the eBay.

    #1035064
    hozn
    Participant

    Yeah, not uncommon to have frames only fit 140. (My road frame, for example.)

Viewing 15 replies - 31 through 45 (of 63 total)
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