Chainring

[sethpo]

Aside from the obvious (number of teeth) the big thing is the BCD which is the distance between the bolts.

http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bcd

Most have the BCD print on the ring itself. They are simple enough to change as long as the bolt pattern fits.

Although, it is entirely possible I recently re-installed the small ring on mine inside out since it’s giving me occasional problems. Mind you, not enough problems to actually take it off and put it back on the right way…yet.

On second thought, you should just wait for someone else to respond who really knows what they are talking about.

Good luck!

[TwoWheelsDC]

@rcannon100 92953 wrote:

This is sort of a one-eighth sighting, or a missed connection, or maybe even a found connection.

ME: Using my Park Tool; determine my chain is cooked; replacing it; not taking a test ride.

ME: Trying to commute to work on a brand new chain and a worn out chainring. Skip skip skip JAM.

ME: Wimpering beside the MVT with my jammed busted chain.

THEM: A herd of poseurs in matching kit flying by and laughing at me. “Do you need any help?? Oh Hi Mr. Cannon”

ME: Looking up ~ its the managers ride from The Kid’s shop. greeeeeeeeaaaaaaaat!

ME: “No no, its okay. I’m a dumb ass. I put a new chain on a worn out chainring.” and finish splicing the damn thing back together again.

THEM: Laughing at me while cycling away

Anyway, I need a new chainring and I aint never done this before. What does one look for when buying a chainring?

Did you actually examine the chainring to confirm, or are you just assuming it’s worn out? Skipping and jamming could be the result of improper chain installation (if it’s a directional chain installed backward, or too long/short), or the chain not meshing well with a worn cassette. I’m not saying you’re wrong, of course, but chainrings are probably the most wear-resistant part of a drive train. Also, assuming you have a double or triple chainring, the wear would be even less and it may not skip if you shift to the other ring(s).

[Powerful Pete]

1. Don’t worry, we have all done this – changing the chain and nothing else!

2. If you have a worn chainring, you may want to look at changing your cassette also – chances several of the cogs will be very well worn;

3. BCD is indeed what you are looking for.

4. If you tell us the year, make and model of your chainring (actually, just the last two and a guestimate on the first) there is a good chance a lot of people here will be able to tell you what you need to buy.

5. Now you learned your lesson: change your chain relatively often so that it can mate to the chainring and cogs in the cassette and not wear them excessively!

[Powerful Pete]

Good point also from TwoWheelsDC… are you sure the chain is installed correctly?

[rcannon100]

The cassette was changed recently and is in good shape. I wear through about two chains a year.

I have three rings up front (the bad boy is a mountain bike set up). Neither the small nor the large ring jump. Just the middle ring. And I ALWAYS ride in the middle ring. Eyeballing it with my senior eyes, it does look like the teeth are a bit worn.

And yes the chain was installed correctly (I may be stupid but I am not an idiot. No wait, isnt that the other way around??.

[DismalScientist]

Well, clearly the solution is to ride mostly in the big ring.

[rcannon100]

@DismalScientist 92963 wrote:

Well, clearly the solution is to ride mostly in the big ring.

Or, in my case, ride mostly in the small ring.

[video=youtube_share;9NBxcIDxUZg]http://youtu.be/9NBxcIDxUZg[/video]

[Crickey7]

I had to replace the middle chainring about every 8-10k. It was a little tricky, but not too bad. It would definitely start skipping when it was worn.

[ShawnoftheDread]

Always ride in the big ring. Problem solved.

[hozn]

Sounds worn to me. Suggestion: check eBay for rings matching your BCD & tooth count. Lots of people sell chainrings taken off new bikes for a lot less than you’ll pay for a new ring. As mentioned earlier the BCD is probably printed on the chainring — or the outer one and the # teeth is almost certainly printed on the chainring.

Edit:
Another thing to double check: make sure you can replace the chainrings. Some (cheaper) cranksets don’t have chainring bolts (they are just riveted together). But probably not yours. Assuming you do have bolts you may need one of those little T wrenches (or whatever they are called) to use on conjunction with a 5mm hex. Hopefully it is a chainring with decent 6mm/5mm hex bolts instead.

[Rod Smith]

I just bought a set of two five bolt Raceface rings, 53/39 130BCD, both for total of $19.95 from Bike Nashbar. Probably too big and too many bolt holes for your bike but if not, pretty good price. I just got them today, hoping they fit my bike. I think they are designed for double crankset, mine is a triple. I should have clearance, stock rings were 30/40/50.

[Dickie]

I just replaced my inner chainring for the same reason….put on new chain to discover the cassette was worn, installed new cassette and chain to find my inner chain ring was worn. Finally got it right, but being Campagnolo I had to sell the rest of the bike to afford it

[Crickey7]

My Bad Boy was one of the original “Dark Angel” models, so the cranks are probably different, but I found only “Vuelta” brand rings fit.

[Powerful Pete]

@Dickie 92995 wrote:

I just replaced my inner chainring for the same reason….put on new chain to discover the cassette was worn, installed new cassette and chain to find my inner chain ring was worn. Finally got it right, but being Campagnolo I had to sell the rest of the bike to afford it

1. You are a good man.

2. It is totally worth it.

3. I have Shimano 105 and Ultegra on two of my rides and Campagnolo Record 10v on my third. It is always so wonderful when I ride Campa. Almost done collecting random parts to shift my commuter over to Campa…

[americancyclo]

@rcannon100 92961 wrote:

Just the middle ring. And I ALWAYS ride in the middle ring.

I always ride in the big ring on my Bad Boy. You want my middle chainring?

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