Buying First "Adult" Bike, Very Confused

[baiskeli]

There are definitely less expensive bikes out there that might suit your needs.

Digging through roadbikereview.com yielded many road bikes in your price and quality range, including several I know or suspect are offered in local bike shops.

I’m not saying you should settle for something cheaper that you don’t like, but if you think you need to shop around more, I know there are more bikes to consider out there. But if you’ve already tried them, then it’s decision time.

[consularrider]

@americancyclo 65244 wrote:

You can also inquire about last year’s stock, which some bike shops will be getting rid of pretty soon in anticipation of the new crop of 2014 bikes coming in. Just make sure you know the differences (if any) between the years. you don’t want to research fun new features on a 2014 only to find they were not included on the 2013 you just got at 20% off MSRP.

The shop may also be able to still get a previous years model that may be left over from its distributor at a discount.

[baiskeli]

@americancyclo 65244 wrote:

You can also inquire about last year’s stock, which some bike shops will be getting rid of pretty soon in anticipation of the new crop of 2014 bikes coming in. Just make sure you know the differences (if any) between the years. you don’t want to research fun new features on a 2014 only to find they were not included on the 2013 you just got at 20% off MSRP.

Yes – fall and winter are a great time to do that, when sales are low and new inventory is coming in.

[FFX_Hinterlands]

If you like the Volpe and the Spacehorse, look at the Handsome Devil. It’s basically a cross bike/light tourer bike. Here’s my writeup of my bike. You order it online, they ship it to a local bike shop that sets it up for you. When I did it earlier this year Handsome paid to ship and have the bike assembled. If you want drop bars and more than 1×8 gearing than you might want to look at another bike that comes that way.

[rcannon100]

You might add to your list a Surly. Specifically the Long Haul trucker. Part of the return to steel movement. An absolutely fabulous bike. I use to ride steel. I currently ride aluminum (and love my bike). If I were to buy today, a steel Surly would be on top of the list.

[DismalScientist]

@americancyclo 65243 wrote:

or Shawn or Dismal will buy it off you cheap :p

I would never buy anything from you charlatans. I only buy from uninformed sellers on Craigslist or ebay.:rolleyes:

[Greenbelt]

I appreciate the desire for a lightweight steel bike, but they are a little pricey. I lust for a Bianchi Vigorelli.

Have you tried aluminum? Are you set on drop handlebars (as opposed to flat)?

There are quite of few pretty nice flat bar aluminum bikes in the $700 range that might fit your budget and desire for light weight, and can be set up with rack and fenders for commuting. Think Jamis Allegro Comp for instance?

Or if drop bar and steel are requirements, do you need integrated brake/shift levers? Bianchi Campione might be a bit lighter than the Aurora, but has down-tube shifters ($825).

Disclosure, I’m related to a bike shop by marriage, which sells these models… so take my two cents for what it’s worth. -Jeff

[KLizotte]

Make sure the fit is right. One way to test this is to go up and down some steep hills when on test rides. If you feel terrified going downhill because you don’t feel like you can control the bike/brakes it may very well be too big for you (though the LBS can make some slight adjustments to improve fit). Make sure you feel comfortable/balanced enough to take one hand off the handlebars and keep pedaling, get a drink from your water bottle, and signal your turns. This may seem obvious but if you’re not used to riding drop handlebars it can be confusing and intimidating to figure out what “feels right”. I’ve learned this the hard way…

A really good fitting bike *will* make you want to ride more; I guarantee it.

[saddlesoar]

don’t even think about labels like “touring” or “cyclocross”, they’re basically meaningless and exist so the manufacturer can find a bin to put the bike in on the web page

Yep, that’s been my experience, and it’s why I’m here There are so many bikes out there, and I seem to find most either too clunky (seems like 25-27lbs is my sweet spot) and most road bikes too flighty and “head down” (I feel like I won’t be able to see well enough to stop if something unexpected happens). Which is why this…

Digging through roadbikereview.com yielded many road bikes in your price and quality range, including several I know or suspect are offered in local bike shops.

…has not been working for me very well so far. :confused:

You might add to your list a Surly. Specifically the Long Haul trucker.

Again, though, this is more in the Volpe/Space Horse price range. It also seems to weigh over 30lbs, so I don’t think it would work. I am interested in whether there are any other bikes in that range that I should compare if I decide to go that route, though.

Have you tried aluminum? Are you set on drop handlebars (as opposed to flat)?

Yes (the steel is just SO comfortable), and yes – I think so.

Or if drop bar and steel are requirements, do you need integrated brake/shift levers?

Yeah. I tried the tube end ones and I am pretty sure I would end up plastered on someone’s windshield.

I guess the bottom line is that I’m too picky, which probably means I need to just fork over for what I really like. But I will try the used stores, and some of the ones mstone mentioned look very interesting – thanks!

[mstone]

I envy people who can find deals in bike shops. They never have anything in my size. (Side note: the absolute worst thing you can do is buy a bike that’s the wrong size just because it’s a good deal–it isn’t.)

I mentioned only drop bar bikes because I gathered from the original post that’s what was of interest. There are definitely other choices if you consider flat bars, and they are typically cheaper (the shifters are simpler and cheaper than the integrated shifters typically found on a flat bar bike). That’s purely a matter of preference (I don’t even own a flat bar bike anymore, but other people don’t like drop bars). You can also shave some dollars by going with bar-end, downtube, or stem shifters (old-school stick on a wire rather than the fancy brake-lever shifters). I would not, personally, especially for something you want to commute on–I like to shift, and I don’t want my hands off the handlebars to do so, especially in traffic or on a MUP. People with better knees, or ride only on empty roads, can more easily ride without a good grip on the bike or without shifting much.

[KelOnWheels]

@saddlesoar 65239 wrote:

Thanks for all of the helpful feedback.

Kel – anything you don’t like about the SH?

I don’t like that I have only one.

I’m totally in lurve with this bike. It’s my commuter, it introduced me to the joys of gravel, and I did my first metric on it a couple of weeks ago.

You totally should get rainbow streamers.

[KelOnWheels]

Spaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaace Hooooooooooooooooooooorse

http://imgur.com/a/9exNZ

[ATTACH=CONFIG]3743[/ATTACH]

[DismalScientist]

Clearly a rant is in order:

When you get down to it, bicycles are just the sum of their components. The components, for the most part are standardized. As more and more frames are made in a few plants in China, these are also becoming standardized. The original poster was looking for a certain type of bike at a lower price point and the easiest way to get a new bike of a certain type with certain specs is to go to the net. This solution is not for everyone because there are costs one must bear. First, you can test ride the bike before so you better have a good idea as to how it will ride before ordering. Second, you better know the right size frame you need. Third, you better not be intimidated by the minimal assembly required and have sufficient skills to deal with minor adjustments (cables, truing wheels, greasing undergreased hubs). Fourth, you will not have specific local bike shop support. If you are comfortable with the previous things, go ahead and buy off the internet. I’ve done it twice without significant issues.

On the weight difference between different steel bikes, since most of the components are the same, the differences are likely due to differences in the frames and wheelsets. This suggests that the heavier bikes have stronger wheels and frames and it is not surprising the the “touring” bikes are heavier. As the old adage goes, you want things that are strong, light and inexpensive, but you can only have two of the three.

[vvill]

I’d agree with the sentiment that if you’ve actually test ridden and found two specific bikes you’ve enjoyed (more than others), then it’s probably best to save/spend a little more and get one of those. Especially since this is your only bike… so far. :rolleyes:

If you put in the time/miles on the bike you envisage then you won’t regret the extra money. Bikes last ages and cost little to maintain. And if you are using it for commuting you can maybe budget in saving some more money there.

Also, since you’re potentially buying new and they are both reputable brands, ideally you will also have good LBS support.

[mstone]

I’ll play contrarian and say that your initial instinct is correct: you may well turn out to not like cycling, and it might not make sense for you to spend as much on a bike as someone already obsessed. The internet is bad for reinforcing biases, and bike forums are notorious for pushing people to upgrade components that normal people won’t be able to distinguish. It may well be that only an expensive bike will work for you, but make sure you’ve actually tried cheaper options. Don’t get upsold if you’re satisfied.

[Author]

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