Assuming Spring Comes, What Do We Need to Change in Bikes and or Equipment
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Terpfan.
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March 29, 2013 at 3:45 am #965969
hozn
Participant@cephas 47626 wrote:
I must disagree. I have the Superlight, and while it took my bank account down, it helped me hold my head up high, without all the sore neck muscles. If you ride far or long, I’d definitely say it’s worth the lighter weight.
Well, I don’t know how much that weighs, but you can get LG helmets for $60-70 that weigh 250-270 grams.
March 29, 2013 at 12:42 pm #965986GuyContinental
Participant@vvill 47595 wrote:
5k?! I can’t imagine even regular maintenance would prevent my chain stretching as it does for 5k, because I assume the wear from road grit, etc doesn’t affect chain stretch – or does it?
The big caveat is that I’m OCD with chains- I have a power-link on every one so I can pull the chain monthly and make it sparkly in a sonic cleaner then I do a deep re-lube with Pro-link. I also lube/wipe down every other ride. No grit = long life.
March 29, 2013 at 12:51 pm #965990mstone
Participant@GuyContinental 47707 wrote:
The big caveat is that I’m OCD with chains- I have a power-link on every one so I can pull the chain monthly and make it sparkly in a sonic cleaner then I do a deep re-lube with Pro-link. I also lube/wipe down every other ride. No grit = long life.
I’d rather buy new chains than spend that much effort on them
March 29, 2013 at 12:52 pm #965991Tim Kelley
Participant@mstone 47711 wrote:
I’d rather buy new chains than spend that much effort on them
Look at Mr. 1 Percenter over here!
But yeah, I completely agree with you…
March 29, 2013 at 1:04 pm #965995GuyContinental
Participant@Tim Kelley 47712 wrote:
Look at Mr. 1 Percenter over here!
But yeah, I completely agree with you…
It’s really not that much work- power link AND a Park link tool make chain removal about 5 seconds, I toss it in the $40 Harbor Freight heated cleaner for 10 minutes while I’m doing other things, rinse, hang the chain and then toss in a ziplock full of pro-link and shake. Maybe 10 minutes of active time. Also I can’t stand new chain packing grease (sorry Sheldon Brown) so buying a chain requires a lot more cleaning (3x the time to get that crap out) anyway.
March 29, 2013 at 1:11 pm #965996mstone
Participant@Tim Kelley 47712 wrote:
Look at Mr. 1 Percenter over here!
But yeah, I completely agree with you…
1 percenter? Maybe I just use cheap chains.
The commuter is 8 speed, the chain is under $20, I’m perfectly willing to spend $20/year on a new chain vs 1/2 hr a month. (I value my time at over $4/hr.) Even the new dura-ace chains can be found around $50, which changes the cost curve a little bit, but they also last longer. Maybe if rode a couple thousand miles a month the calculus would change, but I can’t even imagine when I’d have an extra half hour in that case.
I’d definitely rather buy a chain than a cassette & crank. I do throw on some prolink every hundred miles or so, but that only takes a minute or two.
March 29, 2013 at 1:16 pm #965998consularrider
Participant@mstone 47717 wrote:
… Even the new dura-ace chains can be found around $50, which changes the cost curve a little bit, but they also last longer …
Actually, I think all of the 10 speed chains have a shorter life than my 8 speed chains, they just cost twice or three times as much.
March 29, 2013 at 1:23 pm #966001GuyContinental
Participant@consularrider 47719 wrote:
Actually, I think all of the 10 speed chains have a shorter life than my 8 speed chains, they just cost twice or three times as much.
They should- thinner metal no?
My SS 1/8″ chains are positively deathless. Also heavy as heck but I’ll ride on a single chain for years… of course as of late, the miles MTB on that chain are pretty low…
March 29, 2013 at 1:42 pm #966009mstone
Participant@consularrider 47719 wrote:
Actually, I think all of the 10 speed chains have a shorter life than my 8 speed chains, they just cost twice or three times as much.
I don’t go through enough chains to create data.
The tests I’ve read suggest that shimano’s high-end 10 speed chains are actually fairly durable, and they say that the new 11 is even better. Take it with a grain of salt obviously, because they’re unlikely to say that their new product sucks more, but there’s no specific reason to believe that they can’t come up with techniques for making better chains with all the money they spend on R&D. So yeah, the plates are thinner, but they’re also plated for hardness & low friction. The 9 speed stuff did seem to be a step backward, and the low end of the various lines tend to skip the plating & other features.
There is some reason to believe that over cleaning will reduce chain life, because it’s a lot harder to get lube into the bushings than it is to get it out.
March 29, 2013 at 2:22 pm #966019vvill
ParticipantI admit I generally hate maintenance, cleaning, etc. so I’m not as diligent with my bikes as I should be. And although in theory I have bikes for bad weather, I end up riding any of them in almost any weather.
I think I’m in the would-rather-buy-a-new-chain camp. Or even, let-it-stretch-and-just-buy-a-new-cassette-every-six-months as well
The obvious solution is n+1. Gates Carbon drive, Alfine 11, something like that.
March 29, 2013 at 3:10 pm #966042brendan
Participant@GuyContinental 47722 wrote:
My SS 1/8″ chains are positively deathless. Also heavy as heck but I’ll ride on a single chain for years… of course as of late, the miles MTB on that chain are pretty low…
Plus, they don’t have to suffer the indignities of shifting: the greater the front-to-rear angle, the more stress is put on the moving parts of the chain, which causes faster wear.
But yeah, those are some heavy-duty chains.
Brendan
March 29, 2013 at 3:23 pm #966045brendan
Participant@mstone 47731 wrote:
There is some reason to believe that over cleaning will reduce chain life, because it’s a lot harder to get lube into the bushings than it is to get it out.
Great, now I’ve got ideas for a high-vacuum degreasing system, which takes advantage of the fact that dissolved gasses will expand and push grease out at 0 atm. Paired with a high-pressure lubrication delivery mechanism, of course. Now, if chains weren’t nearly disposable these days, I could be rich!
My main bike requires two chains every time I replace a chain. I’ve definitely suffered the wrath of undead cassettes and beyond-saving chainrings because of my chain laziness, which is even more ironic because the SRAM chains come with a powerlink pre-installed. I wonder if keeping two (double) chains in rotation would lead to better outcomes? Hmm.
Brendan
March 30, 2013 at 2:47 am #966079hozn
Participant@vvill 47742 wrote:
The obvious solution is n+1. Gates Carbon drive, Alfine 11, something like that.
I dunno. I have only ridden behind one gates drive MTB (SS) , but that was the creakiest drivetrain i have ever heard. It would have driven me to drastic action if that had been my bike. Of course, that is just one anecdote, maybe they generally work great.
April 2, 2013 at 2:50 am #966236oldbikechick
Participant@GuyContinental 47189 wrote:
Only other one that I’d add that you really need to do is:
-Repack clipless pedals with grease (very easy with a cheap syringe)I have no idea how to do this. My pedals don’t look anything like the ones in the howto videos on Youtube. I’ve had my clipless pedals for almost 2 years, through rain, mud and grit and have never done anything to them. What happens if you don’t grease them?
April 2, 2013 at 12:13 pm #966245GuyContinental
Participant@oldbikechick 47978 wrote:
I have no idea how to do this. My pedals don’t look anything like the ones in the howto videos on Youtube. I’ve had my clipless pedals for almost 2 years, through rain, mud and grit and have never done anything to them. What happens if you don’t grease them?
Eventually the bearings will wear out and if you are super-duper lucky (and using Speedplays) they’ll seize. In mid stroke. I can attest, that’s less than fun. If you are using common MTB pedals (eg Time or SPD) you have to pull the spindle to grease them (honestly, I wouldn’t bother unless you ride a lot in the rain or are hearing squeaking).
LINK to SPD instructionsEggbeaters have a plastic slotted cover and a grease attachment (the strange “extra” part in the box that looks like a threaded plastic dial). Speedplays have a Phillips #1 screw. On either, the easiest/cheapest grease tool that I’ve found is a medication syringe with the top trimmed to size. Fill with polylube (or your choice) and push the old nasty grease out the spindle.
Not sure how single-sided road pedals are serviced.
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