Advice needed: Should I switch from 2X10 to 1X11 on a touring bike
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- This topic has 81 replies, 25 voices, and was last updated 6 years, 7 months ago by
peterw_diy.
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AuthorPosts
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November 30, 2015 at 3:39 am #1041892
bluerider
Participant@hozn 128730 wrote:
Interesting — so SRAM 11sp road interchanges with mtb parts? I thought that was limited to 10sp, but am happy to learn otherwise.
Hmmmmm…..I may need to dig a little deeper into that one.
November 30, 2015 at 4:13 am #1041893bluerider
Participant@hozn 128730 wrote:
Interesting — so SRAM 11sp road interchanges with mtb parts? I thought that was limited to 10sp, but am happy to learn otherwise.
Nope, you were right. SRAM changed that with 11 speed groups. Looks like I need to use a Rival 1 or Force 1 long cage derailleur.
November 30, 2015 at 12:24 pm #1041900hozn
Participant@bluerider 128732 wrote:
Nope, you were right. SRAM changed that with 11 speed groups. Looks like I need to use a Rival 1 or Force 1 long cage derailleur.
That is too bad, but at least SRAM does have a full range of road 1x componentry.
November 30, 2015 at 1:02 pm #1041901Raymo853
ParticipantI would be worried about a SRAM 11 speed 10 tooth cog on a touring bike when covered in ice and dirt. Maybe I am too much of a retro-grouch, but I do not even think 11 tooth cogs (Shimano, SRAM, Campy of whomever) belong in such environments. Too much tendency for stuff to build up on that small of cogs and render them un-usable.
November 30, 2015 at 3:57 pm #1041896GovernorSilver
Participant@bluerider 128729 wrote:
I settled on the SRAM 10-42 cassette. At this point, I am deciding on the front chain ring ratio. At the moment, I am leaning towards a 34 tooth ring.
Interesting thread.
The Kona Private Jake that I test rode comes stock with a 40T chain ring as part of its 1×11 SRAM drive train. Climbing on it took more effort than the other test bikes though, because its largest rear cog was 32T. I would have loved to try its brother the Kona Rove ST, which also has a 1×11 drivetrain and 40T chainring but with a 36T as the largest cog.
November 30, 2015 at 4:36 pm #1041906ginacico
Participant@Raymo853 128694 wrote:
They are freaking dirt cheap since nobody can stand the fashion shame of using triples anymore.
I’m embarking on a project to swap a Campy racing double for a triple, on my 2001 Univega. Judging by the cost of parts to do that conversion, Campagnolo is unfortunately still the exception to that rule. :rolleyes:
If anyone has a gear-inch spreadsheet they’d like to share, I’d appreciate it. Cuz math is fun, and would help justify or disprove this effort. Thanks!
November 30, 2015 at 4:57 pm #1041908GovernorSilver
ParticipantHere’s the Sheldon Brown gear calculator – includes cassettes by Campagnolo as well as the other big makers – even includes internal gear hubs.
http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/
November 30, 2015 at 7:09 pm #1041918hozn
Participant@Raymo853 128739 wrote:
I would be worried about a SRAM 11 speed 10 tooth cog on a touring bike when covered in ice and dirt. Maybe I am too much of a retro-grouch, but I do not even think 11 tooth cogs (Shimano, SRAM, Campy of whomever) belong in such environments. Too much tendency for stuff to build up on that small of cogs and render them un-usable.
I am guessing that when the 10/11-tooth cog are covered in mud and/or ice, those probably aren’t the times you’re needing to pedal above 25mph … ?
I’ve never head any issue with 11-tooth cogs on the cx bike. Even in very wintery or muddy conditions. (But similarly, I’m not sure how often I’ve actually looked to use that cog in those conditions.)
November 30, 2015 at 7:25 pm #1041921Raymo853
ParticipantAttached is my spreadsheet. It is a ZIP file that should expand to a normal everyday Excel file.
[ATTACH]10158[/ATTACH]
December 2, 2015 at 2:10 am #1042023ginacico
ParticipantThank you to GovernorSilver and Raymo853 for the gear calculators.
The result was a no-brainer, I’ll be switching my Campy double for a triple because the range is much greater. I figure since I’ve already ridden the bike for 15 years, I want to do this once and keep it forever.
Spent yesterday getting advice on component compatibility from Campy techies on Bike Forums, then went shopping on eBay. After all the parts come in, I’ll let my LBS do the build and tune-up so it all works correctly.
See what you started, bluerider?
December 2, 2015 at 2:44 am #1042028DismalScientist
ParticipantYa know, if you just change to friction shifters, you wouldn’t have these compatibility issues.
December 2, 2015 at 3:50 am #1042030hozn
ParticipantWait, will friction shifters work with Di2? Next you’ll be advocating a system that presses rubber blocks agains the rim to stop the bicycle!
December 2, 2015 at 9:30 am #1042044peterw_diy
ParticipantCampy deserves credit here for supporting triples well. Even the Veloce brifters you can get from the UK for under $100 shift triple FDs. None of that Shimano craziness of different shifter SKUs and supply/demand driving availability down and prices up for the triple shifters.
December 2, 2015 at 12:26 pm #1042052ginacico
Participant@peterw_diy 128897 wrote:
Campy deserves credit here for supporting triples well. Even the Veloce brifters you can get from the UK for under $100 shift triple FDs. None of that Shimano craziness of different shifter SKUs and supply/demand driving availability down and prices up for the triple shifters.
Concur, this was a fairly easy project. My shifters will work, basically I just needed the triple crank itself, two derailleurs, and a longer spindle. I could’ve gotten away with a “triplizer” chainring set, but went with Campy components to keep the original aesthetics of the bike. With a little guidance to stick within the time period (early-2000s era Campagnolo), stuff wasn’t hard to find.
Ain’t no retro like khaki wearing, friction shifting DismalScientist, but it’ll be cool.
December 2, 2015 at 1:57 pm #1042027 -
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