9sp Mountain Triple recommendation for Big Dummy?

[peterw_diy]

Universal Cycles seems to have the Whirly parts – arms, spiders, and spindles. Cant most LBS get the same from QBP and piece a triple together for you?

I’ve been pretty happy with my Deore 26/36/48 Hollowtech 2 triple but I’m not sure what counts as heavy duty. IIRC the outer ring is aluminum alloy: http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=35435

[Dirt]

Send me an IM, email or FB message and I can see what I can find that might work for you when I’m at the shop tomorrow.

I’ve used an old school Race Face Turbine ISIS bottom bracket from day 1 and it hasn’t flinched.

[Dirt]

A new crank arm to replace the one that fell off for about $50. When a splined crank comes loose, it damages the crank arm rather than the spindle. New crank arm can be here by Wednesday.

Mr. Whirly crank arm sets are available and can be here by Thursday.

Crank spider adapters for Mr. Whirly cranks are also available. These go between the crank and chainrings. They can be here by Thursday.

Standard chainrings should fit a Mr. Whirly adapter and are easily available.

I haven’t actually worked on one, so I can’t really tell you much more than that. I don’t have much information on the bottom bracket. I’m happy to call them tomorrow and find something that might work for you.

Good luck!

Pete

[Raymo853]

It may be mentioned above, but I would wonder if your bottom bracket spindle has been damaged by the slipping crank-arm. I’ve done that to old square ones and Shimano Octalink. The only solution was a new bottom bracket and crank-arm.

If it was my bike, I would just want to replace both arms and bottom bracket. This Deore with 48/36/26 looks like a good candidate. May not be light and cool, but Hollowtech II cranks have been perfect for me. I’ve been running them since ~2006 without problems except less than long lasting BB bearing until about 2010.. That problem has been addressed by Shim-and-Go as the BB now seem to have much better reliability.

[Dirt]

Most often the aluminum crank arm is what gets messed up and the steel splines (which I think most GPX spindles are steel) stay unharmed. Not always, but most often.

I just talked to Surly. A regular Octalink BB for 24mm Shimano external bearing cranks will work with the Mr. Whirly crank.

Not sure if anything I’ve dumped in here has been of help. Hopefully a little. Let me know if there’s anything I can do.

Thanks!

Pete

[brendan]

Thanks y’all, esp. Pete.

Might reach out to you after a little more digging tonight!

B

[brendan]

Just an update: Pete is ordering me a new crankarm+bolt. I really really torqued the replacement bolt hard about 75 miles ago (braced and stomped hard) and…so far…it’s holding. But still, I’d like to remove the potentially damaged crank arm from the equation and have an expert with a knowledge of the history either properly install the replacement or guide me into doing the same.

Next update: sometime later this week or next week.

B

[hozn]

This was probably covered earlier in the thread, but be sure you torque truvativ/SRAM gxp crankarms to the full ~45Nm (or whatever it says for your cranks). This is a *lot* of force. I had several crankarms fall off before I learned that this was more torque than I could administer with a standard 8mm L hez wrench. I have had no problems with SRAM crank sets since using a torque wrench.

[Harry Meatmotor]

@brendan 107437 wrote:

Just an update: Pete is ordering me a new crankarm+bolt. I really really torqued the replacement bolt hard about 75 miles ago (braced and stomped hard) and…so far…it’s holding. But still, I’d like to remove the potentially damaged crank arm from the equation and have an expert with a knowledge of the history either properly install the replacement or guide me into doing the same.

Next update: sometime later this week or next week.

B

One trick i use at the shop (and at home, too) when doing anything with crank bolts or pedals is to grab a toe-clip strap and double-wrap it around one of the crank arms and the corresponding chainstay. Make sure the strap makes an ‘X’ over the top of the chainstay, that is, the strap will “lock” itself by crossing over itself. Once the crank arm is secured, you’ve got both hands free to properly torque the crank bolt or pedal spindle to spec. I do this more for safety’s sake than anything else – only once did i have a wrench slip and i punched the outer chainring on a bike with my knuckles (messy and quite painful) before I started to use this method.

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