11 speed stack on 10 speed hub?
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hozn.
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January 17, 2017 at 5:17 pm #1064142
drevil
Participant@anomad 152958 wrote:
As it turns out I am looking at an 11 speed cassette and a perfectly good 10 speed freewheel hub. Has anyone left off the 11 tooth cog therefore making it a 10 speed? (with 11 speed shifter and derailleur of course). Is it as simple as throwing a spacer or washer in there against the lockring?
http://darkspeedworks.com/blog-11speed.htm
January 17, 2017 at 5:20 pm #1064143Tania
ParticipantYes.
My King hubs are 10sp but my bike is 11sp. We’ve (Jan at Bikenetic) done two things –
1. Had some fun with the grinder (taking down the back of the cassette). That worked really well actually although while it was being done I had to watch through my fingers.
2. When I had an immediate need a bigger cassette (hilly race), we took a 36 cassette off another bike (that actually HAS 11sp hubs) and dropped one of the small cogs. It’s a little skippy but it worked in a pinch where I needed the bigger cogs more than the smaller ones. That’s actually still on the bike mostly because I always lose too much knuckle skin removing cassettes and I’ve just been too lazy. The 36 cassette was taken off my snow wheels (studded tires) so hopefully it will snow and I’ll be forced to swap things back.
January 17, 2017 at 5:24 pm #1064145Harry Meatmotor
Participant@anomad 152958 wrote:
As it turns out I am looking at an 11 speed cassette and a perfectly good 10 speed freewheel hub. Has anyone left off the 11 tooth cog therefore making it a 10 speed? (with 11 speed shifter and derailleur of course). Is it as simple as throwing a spacer or washer in there against the lockring?
not that simple. Also, I’d be hesitant to machine the cassette body like the link above – I’d rather spend that money on getting an 11-speed freehub.
January 17, 2017 at 5:27 pm #1064146bentbike33
Participant@Tania 152963 wrote:
I always lose too much knuckle skin removing cassettes.
Really? Um, you might need some better tools, and/or a little refinement of your technique.
January 17, 2017 at 5:28 pm #1064147hozn
Participant@Harry Meatmotor 152965 wrote:
not that simple. Also, I’d be hesitant to machine the cassette body like the link above – I’d rather spend that money on getting an 11-speed freehub.
I think @drevil was intending to link to the section where they just describe removing a cog and moving spacer to back, etc. That seems like cheapest way to solve this. Although if the hub is compatible with 11sp freehub, that seems like the best way to solve it. (I guess being the owner of a couple wheelsets that can’t take an 11sp body, I’m assuming that it isn’t.)
January 17, 2017 at 5:30 pm #1064148hozn
ParticipantJanuary 17, 2017 at 5:35 pm #1064149Tania
Participant@bentbike33 152966 wrote:
Really? Um, you might need some better tools, and/or a little refinement of your technique.
I have the tools. It’s just easier (for me) to take the wheel to the shop along with some beer. Or ply jabberwocky with cake.
January 17, 2017 at 5:38 pm #1064151Judd
Participant@bentbike33 152966 wrote:
Really? Um, you might need some better tools, and/or a little refinement of your technique.
I, too, am an unrefined barbarian bike puncher.
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January 17, 2017 at 6:32 pm #1064155huskerdont
ParticipantYou’ve never lost knuckle skin removing a cassette? I thought that’s what the chain whip was secretly designed for–removing excess knuckle skin.
January 17, 2017 at 6:35 pm #1064158drevil
Participant@Judd 152971 wrote:
I, too, am an unrefined barbarian bike puncher.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
LIFE PRO TIP:
When unscrewing a very stuck chainring bolt or pedal, put the chain on the largest chainring. 23 years ago a coworker at a bike shop was trying to remove a stuck chainring bolt of the worn, sharp, and exposed chainring and managed to cut his pinky off at the furthestmost knuckle. Docs managed to sew it back on, but last I heard, it don’t bend no mo’. I guess it’s good for drinking his tea, but not much else
January 17, 2017 at 6:47 pm #1064162drevil
Participant@hozn 152967 wrote:
I think @drevil was intending to link to the section where they just describe removing a cog and moving spacer to back, etc. That seems like cheapest way to solve this. Although if the hub is compatible with 11sp freehub, that seems like the best way to solve it. (I guess being the owner of a couple wheelsets that can’t take an 11sp body, I’m assuming that it isn’t.)
Indeed, thanks @hozn.
One thing to note is that 11-speed MTB Shimano cassettes do fit 10-speed hubs. I’m upgrading one of my wife’s bikes from old, no-longer-working 2×8 speed drivetrain to 1×11, and in my research I’ve found multiple places where they said it was compatible, like below:
The new 11-speed XT cassette will fit any existing Shimano freehub body too. We see this as another big plus, as it’s easy to upgrade to 11-speed without forking out for a new freehub (or hub/wheel) to do so.
from: http://flowmountainbike.com/post-all/shimano-xt-11-speed-with-new-11-42-cassette/I have no idea if the 11-speed road shifters are compatible with 11-speed MTB cassettes.
January 17, 2017 at 7:23 pm #1064163hozn
Participant@drevil 152982 wrote:
I have no idea if the 11-speed road shifters are compatible with 11-speed MTB cassettes.
Yes, road shifters are compatible. This is what I did for my 1x (SRAM) roadbike. XTR 11-40 cassette w/ SRAM X-Sync 50t ring and X1 chain. (Ironically I actually have an 11sp freehub body, but that cassette is a nice weight. I just use the spacer.)
January 17, 2017 at 8:56 pm #1064184anomad
Participant@hozn 152967 wrote:
I think @drevil was intending to link to the section where they just describe removing a cog and moving spacer to back, etc. That seems like cheapest way to solve this. Although if the hub is compatible with 11sp freehub, that seems like the best way to solve it. (I guess being the owner of a couple wheelsets that can’t take an 11sp body, I’m assuming that it isn’t.)
Thanks everyone, I followed your tips and got it to fit no problem!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]13286[/ATTACH]
Seriously though, the spacer behind the stack and dropping one cog works. Only I want to drop the worthless 11 tooth. Not 15-19. Hmmm
January 17, 2017 at 9:06 pm #1064187anomad
ParticipantThis is in fact a new 11 Speed XT cassette and a 10 speed hub. Perhaps its not new enough? It’s not going to fit without dropping a cog and some kind of spacer.
How important is the “cap” function? Its just an old 8 speed freehub nut with a cog on it. I’m thinking if I get another spacer/washer I can drop the 11 tooth and just cinch the nut up against it and the 13 tooth. I might actually use a 13 tooth on a loooong descent, with a tailwind. I’ll try that after I procure a spacer and see what happens. Still have to get my brake order from TRP so I can futz around with it in the meantime.
@drevil 152982 wrote:
Indeed, thanks @hozn.
One thing to note is that 11-speed MTB Shimano cassettes do fit 10-speed hubs. I’m upgrading one of my wife’s bikes from old, no-longer-working 2×8 speed drivetrain to 1×11, and in my research I’ve found multiple places where they said it was compatible, like below:
The new 11-speed XT cassette will fit any existing Shimano freehub body too. We see this as another big plus, as it’s easy to upgrade to 11-speed without forking out for a new freehub (or hub/wheel) to do so.
from: http://flowmountainbike.com/post-all/shimano-xt-11-speed-with-new-11-42-cassette/I have no idea if the 11-speed road shifters are compatible with 11-speed MTB cassettes.
January 17, 2017 at 9:15 pm #1064188hozn
ParticipantYeah, I wasn’t aware that the XT 11sp hubs fit on 10sp bodies; maybe that is new. 11sp XTR cassettes do, though.
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