$0 single speed "conversion"?

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Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 63 total)
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  • #956074
    dcv
    Participant

    @ShawnoftheDread 36389 wrote:

    This is my fixie-to-be. Someday.
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]2103[/ATTACH]

    Perfect frame for a conversion, is someday coming soon?

    #956359
    vvill
    Participant

    Happy to report I emerged unscathed and perhaps even a little enlightened from my first ever fixie ride. Thanks to dcv for sharing his SS/FG CX bike. Going west on the Custis after sunset probably wasn’t the best test environment, but with cushy tires it wasn’t a big deal. It’s definitely a very different experience.

    Edit: additions.
    Thing most likely to make me crash: going from standing up to sitting on the saddle, I tend to coast a little. Fixie coasting is bad.
    Best unexpected thing: How easy it is to keep pedaling. Since your (and the bike’s) momentum continue to turn your pedals you really don’t have to put much energy into pedaling unless you want to go up a hill fast.
    Weirdest thing: trying to modulate speed by resisting the pedals (modulating by pedaling lighter seemed easy enough). Maybe I need to practice on a elliptical backwards or something, but I have very undeveloped muscle memory/fibers for doing that.
    I think I have a bit more understanding of the connection with the road and bike that fixie riders rave about.

    #956378
    Dirt
    Participant

    @vvill 36729 wrote:

    Happy to report I emerged unscathed and perhaps even a little enlightened from my first ever fixie ride. Thanks to dcv for sharing his SS/FG CX bike.

    Welcome to the dark side. :D

    #956451
    dcv
    Participant

    @vvill 36729 wrote:

    Happy to report I emerged unscathed and perhaps even a little enlightened from my first ever fixie ride. Thanks to dcv for sharing his SS/FG CX bike. Going west on the Custis after sunset probably wasn’t the best test environment, but with cushy tires it wasn’t a big deal. It’s definitely a very different experience.

    Edit: additions.
    Thing most likely to make me crash: going from standing up to sitting on the saddle, I tend to coast a little. Fixie coasting is bad.
    Best unexpected thing: How easy it is to keep pedaling. Since your (and the bike’s) momentum continue to turn your pedals you really don’t have to put much energy into pedaling unless you want to go up a hill fast.
    Weirdest thing: trying to modulate speed by resisting the pedals (modulating by pedaling lighter seemed easy enough). Maybe I need to practice on a elliptical backwards or something, but I have very undeveloped muscle memory/fibers for doing that.
    I think I have a bit more understanding of the connection with the road and bike that fixie riders rave about.

    You’re a natural, I could tell you were well prepared physically and mentally. When I first started riding FG there was nothing zen-like about it, took me a while to get used to it.
    Anyone else want to try? (I’m looking at you, shawnofthedead, jrenaut and eminva)

    #956452
    jrenaut
    Participant

    I do want to try. I’m single dad this weekend while my wife is out carousing in New Orleans prior to not one but two oral arguments in the Fifth Circuit Monday morning, so unless your offer to try fixed gear comes with childcare, I’ll have to wait until at least next week.

    Also, I doubt I’m as well prepared as vvill. The hill on 15th St kicked my ass today, and I have 24 gears at my disposal. Just been one of those “I have no legs” weeks.

    #956455
    ShawnoftheDread
    Participant

    Yes, yes I do.

    #956806
    TwoWheelsDC
    Participant

    Instead of starting a new thread, I’ll ask my question here…this is picking up from a convo on Strava, but anyway…

    If I wanted to convert my Cdale R400 (triple crank with 8spd cassette), I theoretically could just do it with a single rear cog/spacers, a chain tensioner, and a new single chainring/bolts/chain (or leave the chain on the existing 42 middle ring)? And what do I do with the derailleur cables (Sora shifters)? And can I re-use my old chain since it’s already an 8spd?

    I noticed Performance has a conversion kit for about $22, so I might try that…unless someone knows of local shops that sell kits.

    #956808
    DismalScientist
    Participant

    Since I only own ancient bikes with horizontal dropouts and would not need a chain tensioner, I would just use the old chain, cut it to size, and not thread it through the derailleur. I would keep both derailleurs on, letting them hang free. Otherwise, there is no problem just removing the derailleurs and the cabling. Of course, if you take the housing out between the brifters and the downtube, you might have to retape the bar.

    #956810
    dcv
    Participant

    2wheels, i was going to post this on strava but too long:

    SS conversion parts list:

    1. $17 Spacer kit http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=36157&category=2621

    2. $30 Single cog http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=9745&category=1569

    3. $23 Tensioner (if vertical dropouts, don’t need if you have horizontal dropouts) http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=47140

    4. $9 single chainring bolts http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=22293

    5. $23 drop bar brake levers (these are small, my favorite) http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=38214

    6. $17 Fizik bar tape (my favorite) http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=16321&category=831

    New parts: $119 + shipping. You may be able to salvage / reuse brake cables and housing. If chain is in good condition break and re-link. Remove derailleurs and shifter and save for a rainy day project.

    Not quite $0, but i’ve always loved working on bikes. If you hunt on CL you might be able to save some money, but it will take patience. I volunteer to help, just let me know

    V

    #956821
    vvill
    Participant

    My conversion was $0 because I converted a hybrid (smaller diameter handlebars), and I had a couple of MTB brake levers (Avid FR5s) hanging around. (Also I had lock-on grips already so no need for new grips or tape.) I was able to re-use the existing brake cabling/housing with no issue – especially foolproof since I am pulling road calipers with MTB levers. I was also lucky finding a straight chainline in a gear that works for me (42/15 out of a 52/42/30 triple with 8 speed 12-25). Simply adjusting the H screw on the RD to prevent rear “shifting” seems to be working well for me so far. I’ve had no issues in maybe 80-100 miles of SS riding.

    I’ve had two rapidfire style brifters still connected to shifter cables laying on my laundry floor for a couple weeks now. I just loosened the bolts that kept the the shifter cables connected to the FD and RD before pulling the shifter cables, and afterwards, unscrewed the housing mounts on my downtube (I think housing mounts differ by frame). I did end up cutting one of them unnecessarily so I won’t be able to use it again but had a crack in the housing anyway.

    I could still shorten the chain a lot (and while doing so, detach the FD which is now acting only as a chain catcher, and use the RD more strictly as a tensioner), take off extra chainrings (and get single bolts), and switch to a single cog with spacers but I’m happy with the set up as is. I’d rather save the money for a dedicated SS/FG bike at this point. (I could change my mind though, this bike really rides too nicely to be used as a utility bike.)

    Based only on my research an 8 speed chain should basically have the same strength as a single speed chain. Not 100% sure though.

    #956828
    dcv
    Participant

    Or you can use the magic gear calculator that jnva posted earlier [url]Http://eehouse.org/fixin/fixmeup.php[/url] and buy a half link http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=23022.
    You may be able to avoid the tensioner.

    Or you could have someone build you a rear wheel with an eccentric rear hub and go fixed.

    #957740
    dcv
    Participant

    Didn’t know where else to post this, this is pretty cool.
    [video=youtube_share;hO2G0cOMQRM]http://youtu.be/hO2G0cOMQRM[/video]

    #958284
    Jason B
    Participant

    ^^^^
    Cool vid. But I would like to throw it out there, despite a fixie’s deceptive simplicity, they have always cost me way more to build than I anticipated. Not to say it isn’t fun building one, but every time I was done building one, I often concluded I could have picked up a decent one for slightly less on Craigslist. So, if you’re going to build one take your time and buy decent parts, so when your finished it will be something that you are proud of and not something you are afraid to ride and need to replace in a week.
    Also, be forewarned, once you build one, your life will be haunted by the “Single rear wheel with flip flop hub” craigslist add that will forever taunt you to start another build.

    #960064
    vvill
    Participant

    Yeah if I want a fixie I will just buy a fixie – none of mine have horizontal dropouts (except the folding bike – and I spent too much already on that to get the gearing nice!).

    Ok now I’ve got about 150 miles on my successful experiment (with only one chain drop – actually it just dropped to the little ring 32T), I’m looking to furnish my conversion with some actual single speed parts. I’ve been really happy with what the bike can do and it’s probably my favourite commuter right now even with the flat bars. (Only downside is the braking in the wet – I could get a CX disc fork though!)

    So from what I’ve researched online, there are a few recommended options for putting singlespeed cogs on a standard Shimano/SRAM hub. The Surly cog and Surly spacer kit are what I’m leaning towards, together with a new KMC X8.93 chain (I’d guess the existing chain/cassette are around 3000 kms old with little maintenance). I found some others that make even wider base cogs too but they’re a bit more boutique. The Surly stuff seems to be one of the most durable. I’m planning to keep my chainrings/RD-as-a-tensioner/FD-as-a-chainkeeper as they are, for now. Anyone have any other suggestions, or caveats?

    #960365
    hozn
    Participant

    @vvill 40726 wrote:

    So from what I’ve researched online, there are a few recommended options for putting singlespeed cogs on a standard Shimano/SRAM hub. The Surly cog and Surly spacer kit are what I’m leaning towards, together with a new KMC X8.93 chain (I’d guess the existing chain/cassette are around 3000 kms old with little maintenance). I found some others that make even wider base cogs too but they’re a bit more boutique. The Surly stuff seems to be one of the most durable. I’m planning to keep my chainrings/RD-as-a-tensioner/FD-as-a-chainkeeper as they are, for now. Anyone have any other suggestions, or caveats?

    I recommend the Surly setup — good quality stuff; the cogs work with 8-speed chains and have wide bases. Some of the cheap conversion kits require SS chains (heavy!) and have narrow bases that will chew your freehub body up (well, especially if alloy). I am 95% sure that I have that set of Surly hub spacers zip tied together in my parts bin that you can have (from my first ss-converted mtb). And I may have a lightly used 16t or 17t cog. Send me a PM or email if interested.

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