Let’s talk about cross chaining

If you are hearing noise from the drive line, it’s causing extra wear. Other than that, I wouldn’t worry about crossing things up that much

@Emm 148805 wrote:

My chains get an “average” lifespan out of them typically–1500 to 2000 miles on my commuter, longer for the weekend only good weather road bike. I think my current chain has around 1200 miles of it and the shop told me it was at .5 last weekend, .

Really? That’s average? I’m pretty sure I last changed my chain in April 2015, so that’s more than 9000 miles I think. I asked Phuoc at Bike Club to check on it before my ride to Pittsburgh in July, and he said it was fine. I ride it year round in all weather. Is that possible? I’m also 1x (1×9), so there’s no front derailleur, but slightly more cross-chaining at the extremes.

I think the lifespan question is going to depend on whether you change chains for a single cassette. I am guessing Steve will be changing both. I get 5k from a chain (and cassette) which hasn’t been any different with multiple rings vs a single one (and more cross chaining).

@Steve O 148807 wrote:

Really? That’s average? I’m pretty sure I last changed my chain in April 2015, so that’s more than 9000 miles I think. I asked Phuoc at Bike Club to check on it before my ride to Pittsburgh in July, and he said it was fine. I ride it year round in all weather. Is that possible? I’m also 1x (1×9), so there’s no front derailleur, but slightly more cross-chaining at the extremes.

9000 from a single chain? I wish I got that from my dry bike.

As to the OP I think cross chaining concern is a thing of the past if you have a reasonably good modern drive train. Say 105 or the like. I often run Big big*. THe added tension from the RD jockey wheel cage spring is little in relation to the tension you impart while driving yourself forward.
I think chain life is directly related to exposure, stress and care. Bikes are not magical things they are relatively small simple analog machines. A chain is a chain. Bike chains have side to side slack built into them intentionally. The side to side slack is calculated to cover the angle displacement of the intended driveline. With well designed modern drive trains the chainring and cog teeth are designed to not contact the chain plates in a full cross. The goal is to only see contact between the chain rollers and the flats on the teeth.

*I don’t make a habit of it. I so like the silky fine finish feel of a clean fresh totally lined up drive line.

My last chain (Sram 970) lasted about 34 miles. This has had a serious negative effect on my average chain life.

I don’t hang around in cross-chained combis, but if I find myself in one, I don’t worry about it but just change out of if when not under load. It’s advice I think I picked up from Ned Overend’s book on mountain biking, back when I still thought there might be a chance I could improve my mediocre mountain biking skilz. So I like seeing these comments from the more mechanically knowledgeable of the posters here.

@Steve O 148856 wrote:

And, of course, today I was riding with some of my peeps on the Blue Ridge Challenge. I was about 200 yards up the hill from the Bluemont General Store when, “Shpramk!” My chain broke.
Was able to remove a link and forge on, but I could immediately sense the ragging I would probably get from this forum.

That will be tomorrow.

You didn’t mention tonking. You didn’t tonk? WTF do I always tonk and no one else* seems to?

*Exception being the guy I saw break a chain while warming up for the Captain Thurmond’s Challenge, who tonked into a brick wall. Dude borrowed my tool, then went on to win the race. I waddled in a good while later. Overall, I think I must be doing it wrong.