What Does A R. Herse Crankset Give The Buyer?

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 41 total)
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  • #1057261
    trailrunner
    Participant

    I have never heard of R. Herse cranks before, but I looked at the cranks on the Compass Cycle website. They look like high-end old-school forged square-taper cranks. Nothing wrong with that, but keep in mind that you have to use a square-taper bottom bracket. Again, nothing wrong with that and not too hard to do. You’d also need to ensure that the frame has the right size bottom bracket shell. Again, not necessarily hard. The thing that would concern me the most is the three-hole bolt pattern for the chainrings. I’ve never seen that before. If you ever want to replace the chainrings, you’d most likely have to buy from them.

    Whether or not they have any advantages or not could be debated for a long time with no conclusion. If you’re building up or restoring a classic bike or a new old-school bike, they might be a nice choice.

    #1057262
    peterw_diy
    Participant

    If you want praise for Herse, go read Jan Heine and Bicycle Quarterly, maybe Velo Orange. I find some of the French praise at least conceivable, if not convincing, like the low trail frame geometry, but I don’t recall any mechanical arguments for the cranks, only aesthetic ones.

    #1057263
    peterw_diy
    Participant

    Ah, Heine lays out some mechanical arguments here, though I expect most square taper BBs would wipe out any weight savings, so you’re down to the ability to take an unusually wide range of chainings, if your front derailleur can handle it. But I guess you’ve already seen that (Compass is Heine’s company). https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/components/cranks/rene-herse-double-crank/

    #1057268
    vvill
    Participant

    It’s mostly style points for money, although being able to run down to a 24T (assuming your front derailleur can handle that) is unusual. Getting different/replacement chain rings on that crankset would probably be expensive too though.

    There is certainly a segment of the cycling community that loves the classic look/function of things like full metal fenders, handlebar mounted canvas bags, tan sidewalls, sprung leather saddles and matching bar tape, shiny chrome/silver parts, etc. as opposed to light aggressive racing carbon frames, deep dish wheels, etc.

    The most recent equivalent to running a tiny front chainring would probably be to run a wide range cassette in the back. Cassettes with 10-42 or 11-46 are becoming more common, but even 12-30 gives a lot more range than 11-23 or 11-25. And not too many years ago lower geared compact cranks (50-34) began replacing more standard (53-39) cranks on many setups.

    #1057269
    Harry Meatmotor
    Participant

    If you think friction shifting is the ultimate expression of technological superiority/retrogrouchiness, or refer to integrated drop-bar brake/shifters as “brifters”, then those cranks are superb.

    Shifting between a 52T outer and a 24T inner will never be very good.

    Otherwise, they’re overpriced. And good luck walking into any bike shop and finding replacement chainrings in a pinch.

    If you’re looking for super wide range gearing in a double chainring setup, try a Tiagra 34-50 crankset and run a Wolftooth Roadlink with a long-cage road rear derailleur, and an 11-36 (or 11-40) cassette.

    Or run the same setup as above, but with a 52-36 up front, and a medium cage rear derailleur.

    #1057275
    hozn
    Participant

    Yeah, they aren’t that light. SRAM Red would be a lighter setup and cheaper. Heck, SRAM Apex would probably be about the same weight if you don’t get a super light (ti) square taper BB.

    As others have noted, the cassette is a better place to find range.

    Relatedly, I just decided to do a 1×11 for my road bike when/as I upgrade it to hydro. 50t ring with a 10-42 or an 11-40 cassette depending on how much I want to spend to save a few grams (for the XD cassette/freehub body). A single 50t with an 11-40 is almost as much range as 34/50 with an 11-28.

    #1057280
    BobCochran
    Participant

    @hozn 146039 wrote:

    I just decided to do a 1×11 for my road bike when/as I upgrade it to hydro.

    @hozn — Can you explain what you mean by “upgrade it to hydro”? I think I understand the bit about “1×11”: you are saying you want one chainring up front and 11 cogs on the cassette, right? Tell me about the hydro bit.

    Thanks!

    Bob

    #1057282
    peterw_diy
    Participant

    Hydraulic disc brakes (vs cable actuated)

    #1057283
    hozn
    Participant

    Yeah, that’s right, am upgrading my road bike to Sram hydraulic brakes to replace the TRP Spyres I have on there now.

    So currently I have a 2×10 setup and since I am buying new 11sp hydraulic levers I have opportunity to choose whether I want a left shifter or just brake. I was on the fence, but two recent chain drops and finding a new flat-mount Force brake [only] for $170 (which as these things go is actually a great deal) made my decision to do 1×11.

    #1057284
    dkel
    Participant

    @hozn 146049 wrote:

    Yeah, that’s right, am upgrading my road bike to Sram hydraulic brakes to replace the TRP Spyres I have on there now.

    Got plans for the spyres? I’ve been thinking of upgrading from my bb7s…

    #1057290
    hozn
    Participant

    @dkel 146050 wrote:

    Got plans for the spyres? I’ve been thinking of upgrading from my bb7s…

    No plans yet. I will keep you in mind, though, if I decide to sell them. Right now I am thinking I might build a race-only bike with my carbon frame that uses the Spyres.

    #1057302
    Raymo853
    Participant

    I think the Herse crankset is one of the best looking crank sets I have I ever seen. If I had much more money time and space, I would have a retro touring bike with one on it. I would never use this bike for much more than riding around town.

    However, if I needed to rely on my bike for real uses such as riding, commuting, or touring I would not consider it for even one second. Yes it is well engineered and will work well, but the lack of compatibility with standard chainrings is just foolish. Even if money is no concern, trying to find chainrings if you are far from home could be very difficult.

    For touring, I suggest getting a 5 bolt crankset with the outer bolt diameter being 110 and the inner 74. You can find chain rings for those everywhere and in many many sizes. I have seen as small as 24 and as large as 54. Then ruin a wide by not crazy wide rear cassette. One with the smallest being 11 or 12 and the largest 30 or 32. Having the largest as 34-42 may sound good, but that can lead to a huge amount of other problems.

    The best touring crank I know of, the Sugino XD500-T http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/cranks/11074.html One problem, it does not work well with 10 or 11 speed rear systems. In those cases, I would suggest something like a modern Shimano MTB triple crank.

    #1057306
    ShawnoftheDread
    Participant

    @hozn 146056 wrote:

    No plans yet. I will keep you in mind, though, if I decide to sell them. Right now I am thinking I might build a race-only bike with my carbon frame that uses the Spyres.

    And think of me if Dkel passes.

    #1057321
    vvill
    Participant

    @Raymo853 146071 wrote:

    For touring, I suggest getting a 5 bolt crankset with the outer bolt diameter being 110 and the inner 74. You can find chain rings for those everywhere and in many many sizes. I have seen as small as 24 and as large as 54. Then ruin a wide by not crazy wide rear cassette. One with the smallest being 11 or 12 and the largest 30 or 32. Having the largest as 34-42 may sound good, but that can lead to a huge amount of other problems.

    What are the other problems? (Genuinely curious – I haven’t run anything larger than a 30t on road / 36t on MTB cassette.)

    I do like the 5-bolt 110 BCD standard myself. Seems like plenty of options – 34T to 53T+ (and even one company makes a 33T)

    #1057334
    hozn
    Participant

    I am also curious about problems with larger than a 32t rear; I haven’t had any problems with a 36t rear cog, but that is the largest I have used. (Planning on 40/42, so should probably rethink if there are some significant drawbacks.)

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