Replacing Freehub body on Shimano M756 hub – not quite matching replacement body?

I’m afraid I probably can’t be much help on the freehub questions… I just did my first hub bearings overhaul this weekend, but have never touched a freehub replacement, though I would give it a go if I had to.

That said, I wanted to chime in with a rim recommendation… I have been VERY happy with my Sun Rhyno Lite rims (26″ 36h). They’re double walled w/ hole eyelets. I built up a wheelset with them last spring/summer. Suffice it to say I am a heavier rider, and almost all my riding includes a loaded set of panniers on the rear or a Burley trailer hooked up behind to tow my son, and I only have to do a little truing on the rear once after about 1,000 miles of riding. Otherwise, they’ve been bulletproof. (Knock on wood.) No broken spokes and nice and true.

I don’t know if they’re heavily reinforced enough for your purposes, but they’re solid rims and quite affordable.

@paulg 83670 wrote:

I think I know what you are trying to do. Before inserting axle into hub you lock the cone and the locking nut on to the axle on the drive side, then put in the new wheel bearings into grease in the freehub to stop them falling out, you can then insert the axle from the freehub side to sit the cone against the bearings. Now you thread the cone and locking nut to the axle that protrudes on the NON drive side (after putting in new bearings in grease) and do all you axle adjustments on the NON drive side where you should be able to access, with cone wrenches, both the cone and locking nut.

This article is great for cone adjustments.

http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html

Hope that helps.

This is exactly right – another reason to only touch the non-drive side lock nut and cone is so you don’t affect the drive-side outer lock nut to drive-side hub flange spacing. If you add or take away spacing from this side of the axle, you’re shifting will be off as you’ve effectively moved the hubshell either towards or away from the dropout in the frame. Also, the metal dust cover is, in fact, removable, but you’ll likely need a blind bearing pull to remove it without damaging it. Another tool that’s indispensable when working on cup and cone hubs is a decent axle vise. Hozan makes a nice axle vise but the Park Heavy Duty axle vise works just about as well.