Funding a new commuter

@ebubar 50517 wrote:

1) N+1 won’t work in my place. Wife approves of a new bike, but requires selling the old. How much
would you sell a 2012 Trek 7.2FX with ergon grips, rack and barends? Retail value of everything combined
around $600. I’m thinking a 33 percent discount, so $400 is possible?

Personally, I use the 50% depreciation as an starting point as a buyer. It is easy to get good online deals for bikes/parts (though not Trek). $350 might be a more realistic target, but I haven’t paid attention to CL prices lately. Definitely the right time to sell , though. Still original drivetrain?

@ebubar 50517 wrote:

2) Test rode a few bikes. I think i’m pretty set on a triple instead of a compact double. I like the granny gear
for climbing up 41st street. My Takoma to Arlington commute gets pretty hilly in the beginning and end and my
legs appreciate the break of that triple.

A compact with a 32 in the back should give you incredible low end. I find 34/28 as easy as I ever need around here, but I don’t climb 41st daily with commute gear. A 32 may limit you to SRAM Apex right now, but nothing wrong with that IMO.

Nothing wrong with a triple either, I suppose. I feel like road double stuff will be easier to come by as compact cranksets seem to be making triples obsolete, but I might well be wrong.

@ebubar 50517 wrote:

Journey so far:
Bianchi Volpe – like it. A little too expensive and no disc brakes. Have read many places that canti’s aren’t the best for all weather commuting.

Yeah, in my experience, they are not. Disc is the way to go. It has got to be the future of braking across the board. The pad wear and braking performance are unmatched by rim brakes. That said, they are not quiet in the wet (with sintered pads, anyway). I terrified several pedestrians on the trail in my commute today when coming to a stop at crossings, etc. Of course, there are options like mini-v which use canti bosses, but IMO provide better performance and easier setup.

@ebubar 50517 wrote:

I’m curious if I should look into entry level road bikes as well? I commute on decent roads
and trails (Sligo, GBT, CCT, 41st Street wall of death) with the exception being the Georgetown Branch Trail and a short stretch
on the C&O Canal. Those gets bumpy. Would an entry level road bike
with better tires (puncture resistant 28 Marathon tires perhaps) be worth checking out? I’m seeing them for significantly less
than an entry cyclocross, even with the price for expensive tires. This would leave room for a good rainproof cycling backpack, jerseys, (baggy) shorts
and other goodies.

I haven’t done the research thou have, obviously, but I think a CX bike is a great choice, as it provides a ton of versatility. You can set it up like a road bike or put 28s and fenders for commuting or put 32+ tires and go ride single track. You really aren’t limiting your options with a CX bike.

Good luck! Buying a new bike is always fun.

I sold my hybrid around this time last year for about 50% of what I paid, so I concur with Hans.

Regarding gearing, I like having a triple on my commuter (50/39/30 x 11-28). I rarely use the granny, even with a fully-loaded pannier, but it’s nice to have that extra bottom end, since I prefer to remain seated for climbs because standing and pedaling is awkward when the panniers are on. With a compact and a 12-30 though, you can get almost the same gear inches as a triple with a 25 or 28 in back, so double/triple probably wouldn’t be a major consideration if I was choosing a commuter.

50% sounds about right, despite it being a 2012 model. Check online shops (competitivecyclist, wrenchscience) and you’ll see that last year’s models –new bikes, mind you, never ridden–are often deeply discounted 30%-50%.

You might add the Surly Disc Trucker to your candidate lineup. I can’t remember your price ceiling, but at $1400 its got the discs and triple that you’re looking for. I’ve put about 5000 miles on mine in the last 9mo and have been very pleased with it. It’s handled commuting, long distance (centuries, brevets, etc.), gravel (see: Dirt), and the occasional single-track with skill and aplomb. (Yes, I had to double check the definition to make sure it was correct usage.)

The good thing about going for a CX bike to commute on is that the “entry level” models typically have rack/fender mounts. And with the “relaxed” CX geo, tends to be a bit more stable at lower speeds or on crappy terrain.

One model no one has mentioned- All City Macho Man. A bit pricier at $1600 but you do get a ton of bike for the money. I used to work at a shop and we sold tons of the A/C bikes. They have a cool attitude, great dealer service and a very good product. They really do their homework when it comes to well sorted bikes that can do it all (slight exaggeration, but you know what I mean). I own 4 A/C bikes currently, and have my sights set on two more.

@vvill 50594 wrote:

Finally – if you’re a WABA member you may be able to get a discount at many LBSs. On a new bike + accessories it might even save you money just to become a member.

WABA recommendation is a very good one – just note that bike shops typically wont apply the standard WABA discount to bike purchases. Components/accessories/services Yes, full builds (because of typically very low margins) No.

@vvill 50597 wrote:

Wait, what? You need to go post here (again)!

I like the look of the Macho Man disc but kind of want a Nature Boy disc Zona to be created.

Still on the fence about discs, but I know exactly what you mean. NB Zonas are naughty

@vvill 50594 wrote:

I feel like if you know you are going to be riding your bike a lot then just a little more money really shouldn’t be *as* a big deal – especially if your commutes save you money, and help keep you healthy. I know it’s not easy to convince others of that, but if you compare it to the most expensive options (e.g. owning/running/maintaining a car) and get people to treat a bicycle seriously as a transportation vehicle (and fitness equipment), as well as a sport/hobby purchase (how they are often commonly viewed) you might be able to squeeze out a bit more. Although, since this is an upgrade from a decent commuter bike, I understand it may be a tougher sell. You could always wait until sale season (usually after summer I think) to see if any bikes you’re after get a bit cheaper, and you might have more in the kitty to splurge then too.

Cyclocross is generally a good choice for all-round speed although as touched on in other threads most touring style road bikes could also serve similar purposes.

Also: I imagine (I have never sold a bike) that when you add things to your bike it can be a tough sell to really get the value you added from the selling price. You might better off keeping your upgraded parts and putting the stock items back on, esp. easily removable items like a rack etc. so you can keep them for your new bike.

Finally – if you’re a WABA member you may be able to get a discount at many LBSs. On a new bike + accessories it might even save you money just to become a member.

All great points. Especially about selling a bike with “add ons”. I see a ton of bikes on CL etcetera with aerobars, cheapie seat/bar bags, bento boxes, pumps ad infinitum. Unfortunately a lot of people think this adds to the value of the bike overall. More often than not the bike ends up at the shop getting a bunch of stuff removed. If you have a bunch of “extras” offer them alongside the bike as opposed to with the bike.

@Greenbelt 50608 wrote:

One more obs on disks in the rain. I’ve never had trouble with braking power with decently tuned/toed in cantis, even in the wet, even at my heavy load weight. However, if I neglect maintenance (which I sometimes do), and the cantis get a little off, sometimes they can get a bit grabby, which can be a bad thing in the rain – you can lock up a wheel if you’re not careful and hit the brakes too hard. I was riding fast up to Baltimore in the pouring rain on my CX bike with cantis the other week, and felt my rear wheel almost lock a couple times when I braked. In fairness to the bike, though, that was a pretty rugged road test with an inch of water on the roads sometimes and we were going way too fast!

The disks braking seems smoother, so less likely to lock up a wheel when it’s slippery — more forgiving if you’re not paying attention and have to brake harder than expected on a sloppy day. Just my observations… others may have different experiences. -Jeff

Good thing I’m bringing mine in this afternoon (if the kids cooperate) – dumb car cut me off on 14th and I locked up the back, complete with awesome fishtail, that luckily ended up in nothing but a brief “OMG I’m gonna die” moment. I’ve gotten mildly competent at derailleur adjustment, but am still struggling with the brakes.