Derailleur adjustment on new bike

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
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  • #960690
    DismalScientist
    Participant

    Cable stretch has less to do with miles than how many times you yank on the cable.
    Also, with more cogs on the cassette adjustments are more finicky.
    Just stick it in friction mode and wait longer between tightenings of the cable.:rolleyes:

    #960691
    jrenaut
    Participant

    It’s a 10 speed rear, so tons of cogs. What is “friction mode”?

    #960694
    thecyclingeconomist
    Participant

    “…still be getting way out of adjustment every 5-10 miles or so

    Something’s off. Even normal cable stretch leads to very gradual miss-shifting over the first 200+ miles. However, what might have occurred is that the housing ferrules weren’t seated correctly, so you can get a LOT of change in the effective length of the cable from those getting set into place. But over 175 miles, even that should’ve worked itself out quite rapidly.

    I’d take it in. Something is slipping. (You didn’t provide details on the drivetrain: what kind of shifters? etc?)

    #960695
    krazygl00
    Participant

    @jrenaut 41463 wrote:

    It’s a 10 speed rear, so tons of cogs. What is “friction mode”?

    He’s being all retrogrouchy :)

    Friction mode would be with downtube shifters where you could switch from indexed shifting (detents which allow the shifter to “click” into place) to friction shifting where shifter movement is smooth for the whole range allowing infinite adjustment. It’s like digital versus analog, or like a fretted bass versus fretless.

    #960696
    bobco85
    Participant

    Definitely take it in. Hopefully it’s just something minor, since it’s a new bike. Maybe the screws are a little loose in the derailleur? That’s my guess.

    @jrenaut 41463 wrote:

    It’s a 10 speed rear, so tons of cogs. What is “friction mode”?

    Friction shifting involves changing gears by moving the shifter (just a lever) which will pull the derailleur left/right to another gear. The lever moves smoothly and does not “click” into place. You can feel (and hear) the “friction” when the chain is not directly on a cog and then you just need to adjust the lever until it feels (and sounds) smoother.

    The type of shifting most people are used to is index shifting where the derailleur moves a set distance every time you “click” the shifter into a new gear.

    Here’s an analogy to help (this is how I understand it) – Friction shifting : index shifting :: manual drive (cars) : automatic drive (cars)

    Sources:
    http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_e-f.html (scroll down to Friction Shifting)
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shifter_(bicycle_part)#Friction_shifting

    #960698
    thecyclingeconomist
    Participant

    If he’s got a 10-speed rear end, it is HIGHLY unlikely that he’s got either downtube shifters, or time-trial shifters that have the option to run in either indexed or friction mode.

    #960700
    TwoWheelsDC
    Participant

    His bike is 2013 Tiagra, so no friction shifting.

    #960725
    jrenaut
    Participant

    Thanks, all. Yes, Tiagra with 10 in back. I’ll take it in.

    #960743
    DismalScientist
    Participant

    Sorry, I thought :rolleyes: is the international smiley of sarcasm. :rolleyes:!

    #960751
    baiskeli
    Participant

    @krazygl00 41467 wrote:

    He’s being all retrogrouchy :)

    A new word for the forum dictionary!

    #960806
    Greenbelt
    Participant

    Is it just me, or do new chains also sort of have a break in period? For example, even on my very well-worn bikes, often when I have a new chain installed, the shifting goes a little whack after 50 or 100 miles, then after some twiddles, seems to stabilize after 200 miles or so.

    PS. Jon, aren’t you due for your warranty tune anyhow, or did you already do that? The shop is open late tonight (until 9pm) for potluck if you want to ride out there with me (and maybe take Metro home?) — Ben and Anthony and Johnny are there tonight and can probably do at least some adjustments on the spot. You’d have to put on your cross tires… -Jeff

    #960872
    jrenaut
    Participant

    This morning, I left the house on the way to Friday Coffee Club. I had gone less than a mile when suddenly my bike was a 3-speed. Absolutely no response from the rear derailleur. I stopped at the bike shop, happily only a few blocks away (The value of having a bike shop or two along your normal commuting route can not be overstated). Turns out the derailleur hanger is bent. They got it adjusted so that the bike would shift again, which lasted maybe 2 miles, and then it went out again. Pulling on the cable got it to shift again, but it looks like a trip to Proteus is in my weekend plans.

    Makes me feel better that my complete inability to get the derailleur adjusted well wasn’t actually my fault.

    #960879
    Dirt
    Participant

    While they’re working on it, have them check that the cable housing is okay and that the derailleur isn’t messed up. Sometimes those things happen together. They can all contribute to a shifting problem.

    #960885
    jopamora
    Participant

    @jrenaut 41654 wrote:

    I stopped at the bike shop, happily only a few blocks away (The value of having a bike shop or two along your normal commuting route can not be overstated).

    What LBS in DC is open at 8am on a weekday? Maybe your bike didn’t like those compromising pictures you posted.

    #960886
    jrenaut
    Participant

    The Bike Rack at 14th and Q NW is open 8-7 Monday through Friday, 10-6 Saturday, 10-5 Sunday. Good shop, though their selection of bikes tends towards road racing and cruisers more than versatile commuters.

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